Sunday, 15 April 2018

EAU DE LANCASTER by Lancaster


Brand: Lancaster 
Perfume: Eau de Lancaster pronounce in French 
Concentration: edt
Notes:  top - bergamot, mandarin, lavender, coriander, basil
            middle - jasmin, lily, peach, rosewood, floral notes
            base - oakmoss, amber, vanilla
Ingredients: Alcohol Denat., Aqua/Water/Eau, Parfum/Fragrance, Alpha-Isomethyl Ionone, Benzophenone-3, Benzyl Benzoate, Benzyl Salicylate, BHT, Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane, Butylphenyl Methylpropional, Cinnamal, Cinnamyl Alcohol, Citral, Citronellol, Coumarin, Ethylhexyl Salicylate, Eugenol, Geraniol, Hexyl Cinnamal, Hydroxycitronellal, Hydroxyisohexyl 3-Cyclohexene Carboxaldehyde, Limonene, Linalool, D&C RED N°33 (CI 17200), FD&C BLUE N°1 (CI 42090), FD&C YELLOW N°5 (CI 19140)
Informations on the packaging: Dist. Coty Prestige · Monaco · 75002 Paris. Coty US LLC, New York, NY 10016. Coty Canada, Inc. Dorval Quebec H9P 2V4
Brand owner (now): Coty Inc., USA - www.coty.com; www.lancaster-beauty.com
Made in France.

🅒itrusy. This was my first thought that came to my mind. But it is not an austere, airy and vaporous citrus; it has body. This olfactory note invests the fragrance with life. Furthermore, I feel nothing harsh. I do no sense it to be either succulent or dry. The perfume sits somewhere in the middle. It emanates the ebullience specific to citruses' pulp, only that it does it in a reserved register of intensity, the rind's flavour also being present.

That there are other actors who equally play on the stage, I have no doubt. I do not detect in particular the plants appearing in the top notes, however Eau de Lancaster clearly is aromatic and, practically, this is the adjective that defines it.
Further back, I found a vegetal/green nuance, slightly herbaceous and almost indistinguishable bitter. Likewise, I do not feel either the flowers or the peach as freestanding entities.

A few seconds upon application on skin, the fragrance smells masculine, but by no means does it reach the extreme phase. It has the odour of a pretty and simple aftershave. I situate it in the unisex category due to the touch of a slightly sweet note which I find it specific to citruses like mandarin rather than coming from amber or vanilla. This note rounds the composition and ingraines a sensation of warmth.

All of these make Eau de Lancaster a pleasant scent and one which gives off positivism.

Whenever I walk and its odour enters my nostrils, no sentiment manifests inside me. I do not feel like jumping with joy. Even though I am not searching for it to have the wow factor, I know it is missing that something which would made me want to smell it again, and again ... and again.

At this moment, my mind rewinds back in time to Aromatics in White. In spite of being two very different fragrances with no olfactory connection among them, the one from Clinique has the character that I call "restrained", "plasticky" which also applies to Eau de Lancaster. It seems that the perfume is flattened and something pulls it back.
In addition, I would have liked the scent to have complexity. And I believe this is the real reason for which it did not achieve success in my case.

In conclusion, I would describe Eau de Lancaster with the words "unambitious" and "polite".

My verdict: 7 out of 10.

🌿🍊🐞🍊🌿


Brandul: Lancaster 
Parfumul: Eau de Lancaster pronunță în franceză 
Concentrația: edt
Notele:  de vârf - portocală bergamotă, mandarină, lavandă, coriandru, busuioc
             de mijloc - iasomie, crin, piersică, palisandru, note florale
             de bază - mușchi de stejar, chihlimbar, vanilie
Ingredientele:  Alcohol Denat., Aqua/Water/Eau, Parfum/Fragrance, Alpha-Isomethyl Ionone, Benzophenone-3, Benzyl Benzoate, Benzyl Salicylate, BHT, Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane, Butylphenyl Methylpropional, Cinnamal, Cinnamyl Alcohol, Citral, Citronellol, Coumarin, Ethylhexyl Salicylate, Eugenol, Geraniol, Hexyl Cinnamal, Hydroxycitronellal, Hydroxyisohexyl 3-Cyclohexene Carboxaldehyde, Limonene, Linalool, D&C RED N°33 (CI 17200), FD&C BLUE N°1 (CI 42090), FD&C YELLOW N°5 (CI 19140)
Informațiile de pe ambalaj: Dist. Coty Prestige · Monaco · 75002 Paris. Coty US LLC, New York, NY 10016. Coty Canada, Inc. Dorval Quebec H9P 2V4
Deținătorul brandului (acum): Coty Inc., S.U.A. - www.coty.com; www.lancaster-beauty.com
Fabricat în Franța.

🅒itric. Acesta a fost primul gând care mi-a venit în minte. Însă nu este un simplu fruct citric aerisit și vaporos; are substanță. Această notă olfactivă conferă viață parfumului. În plus, nu simt nimic aspru. Nu îl percep nici zemos, dar nici uscat. Parfumul se poziționează undeva pe la mijloc. Emană efervescența specifică pulpei citricelor, doar că o face într-un registru rezervat al intensității, prezentă fiind și aroma cojii.

Că mai sunt și alți actori ce joacă pe scenă, nu am niciun dubiu. Nu sesizez în mod individual plantele menționate în lista de note de vârf, dar Eau de Lancaster este clar aromat și, practic, acesta este adjectivul care îl definește.
În planul al doilea, am găsit o nuanță vegetală/verde, foarte puțin erbacee și aproape insesizabil amară. De asemenea, nu simt nici florile și nici piersica ca entități de sine stătătoare.

După câteva secunde de la aplicarea pe piele, parfumul miroase masculin, dar în niciun caz nu se duce până în faza extremă. Are aromă de aftershave simpatic și simplut. Îl încadrez la categoria unisex datorită atingerii unei note ușor dulci care mai degrabă mi se pare caracteristică fructelor citrice precum mandarina decât ca provenind de la chihlimbar sau vanilie. Această notă rotunjește compoziția și imprimă o senzație de căldură.

Toate acestea fac din Eau de Lancaster un parfum plăcut și care emană pozitivism.

Când mă mișc și mirosul său îmi intră în nări, nu se manifestă niciun sentiment în mine. Nu îmi vine să tresar de fascinație. Cu toate că nu mă interesează să aibă factorul uau, îi lipsește acel ceva care să mă facă să vreau să îl miros iar și iar ... și iar.

În acest moment, gândul mă duce la Aromatics in White. Desi sunt parfumuri fără legătură olfactivă între ele, cel de la Clinique are acel caracter pe care eu îl numesc „reținut”, „ca de plastic”, și care i se aplică și lui Eau de Lancaster. Pare că parfumul este aplatizat și ceva îl trage înapoi.
În plus, mi-ar fi plăcut ca aroma să aibă complexitate. Și cred că aici se găsește adevărata cauză a lipsei sale de succes asupra mea.

În concluzie, cuvintele cu care îl caracterizez pe Eau de Lancaster sunt „cuminte” și „politicos”.

Nota mea: 7 din 10.

Saturday, 31 March 2018

SECRET DE ROCHAS - OUD MYSTÈRE by Rochas


Brand: Rochas pronounce in French
Perfume: Secret de Rochas - Oud Mystère pronounce in French
Concentration: edp
Notes: saffron, rose, gardenia, agarwood, spices, patchouli, olibanum, woodsy notes
Ingredients: Alcohol Denat., Parfum (Fragrance), Aqua (Water), Benzyl Salicylate, Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate, Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate, BHT, Citronellol, Geraniol, Hydroxyisohexyl 3-Cyclohexene Carboxaldehyde, Hydroxycitronellal, Coumarin, Linalool, Limonene, Amyl Cinnamal, Citral, Hexyl Cinnamal, CI 19140 (YELLOW 5), CI 17200 (RED 33), CI 60730 (EXT. VIOLET 2), CI 42090 (BLUE 1)
Informations on the packaging: Parfums Rochas S.A.S., 17, rue de Miromesnil, F-75008 Paris
Brand owner (now): Interparfums SA, France - www.interparfums.fr; rochas.com
Made in France.

🅘t smells of lemon peel and not juicy. The rind's quintessential bitterness does not stand out in relief in an excessive manner, but I can feel it. Is seems as if the scent is that of a tisane made out of lemons peel (if such a thing exists). The odour is calm and mellow as it does not have that freshness and sparkle of the citrus fruit pulp.

Wednesday, 21 March 2018

OPEN by Roger & Gallet


Brand: Roger & Gallet pronounce in French
Perfume: Open
Notes:   top - Amalfi lemon, bergamot, lavender
              middle - sage, thyme
              base - tobacco, patchouli, vetiver
Ingredients: Alcohol, Aqua/Water, Parfum/Fragrance, Limonene, Linalool, Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane, Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate, Eugenol, Butylphenyl Methylpropional, Benzyl Salicylate, Hydroxycitronellal, Geraniol, Coumarin, Citronellol, Hexyl Cinnamal, Benzyl Alcohol, Triethanolamine, Citral, Cinnamal, Isoeugenol, Alpha-Isomethyl Ionone, Cinnamyl Alcohol, Benzyl Benzoate, CI 14700/RED 4
Informations on the packaging: Roger & Gallet, 3, avenue Saint-Anne, 92602 Asnieres Cedex, TSA 10007 F 92667 Asnieres Cedex
Brand owner (now): L'Oréal Group, France - www.loreal.com; www.roger-gallet.com
Made in France.

🅞pen is one of those fragrances that sparked my imagination the moment I sniffed it.
I immediately told myself that it smells vintage, like a perfume from another era, and very oldish. In just a few seconds, my brain illustrated to me the thing I was thinking of. Well, the picture of an aged man composed in my head, undoubtedly British (not sure why), standing somewhere on a footway, the pavement covered in brown and golden leaves. It was evidently autumn, the air

Friday, 9 March 2018

ONE LOVE by Jean-Louis Scherrer


Brand: Jean-Louis Scherrer pronounce in French
Perfume: One Love
Concentration: edp
Notes:   top - violet leaf, lemon, mimosa, bergamot, saffron
              middle - woody notes, magnolia, lilac, iris
              base - oakmoss, ambrette, vetiver
Ingredients: Alcohol Denat. (SD Alcohol 39-C), Parfum (Fragrance), Aqua (Water), Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate, Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate, BHT, Citronellol, Alpha-Isomethyl Ionone, Hydroxycitronellal, Limonene, Linalool, Geraniol, Citral, Benzyl Alcohol
Informations on the packaging: SA Designer Parfums Ltd, WD24 7JG, England
Brand owner (now): SA Designer Parfums Ltd, England - www.designerparfums.com; www.parfumsscherrer.com
Made in France.

🅙ust like with Jean-Louis Scherrer by Jean-Louis Scherrer, my first impression of this scent was pretty weak. It did not strike a chord too much and I wondered if I did not make a mistake buying it. However, One Love revealed its true beautiful face only later when it got me captivated.

In the beginning, a burst of creaminess hits me right away. I immediately thought of a perfumed

Saturday, 3 March 2018

AROMATICS IN WHITE by Clinique


Brand: Clinique
Perfume: Aromatics in White
Concentration: edp
Notes:   top - Sichuan pepper, violet leaf, labdanum
              middle - orange blossom, rose, patchouli
              base - amber, musk, benzoin, vanilla
Ingredients: Alcohol Denat., Fragrance (Parfum), Water\Aqua\Eau, Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate, Butyl  Methoxydibenzoylmethane, Ethylhexyl Salicylate, Geraniol, Linalool, Citronellol, Alpha-Isomethyl Ionone, Limonene, Coumarin, Citral, Benzyl Benzoate, Methyl 2-Octynoate, Isoeugenol
Informations on the packaging: © Clinique Labs., Dist. N.Y., N.Y. 10022, London W1K 3BQ Z9F7
Brand owner (now): The Estée Lauder Companies Inc., USA - www.elcompanies.com; www.clinique.com
Made in Switzerland.

🅕irst of all, I feel it is important to say that Aromatics in White has no olfactory resemblance to Aromatics Elixir. And in spite of that, the bottles and the names of the two are almost identical. I think the reason of this situation is pretty obvious: the company made use of the famous fragrance from its portofolio in order to get Aromatics in White noticed by the public and

Tuesday, 16 January 2018

CINNABAR by Estée Lauder


Brand: Estée Lauder pronounce in English
Perfume: Cinnabar pronounce in English 
Concentration: edp
Notes:  top - jasmine, bitter orange flower, tangerine
            middle - clove, muguet, lilly
            base - olibanum, sandalwood, patchouli
Ingredients: Alcohol Denat., Cinnabar Perfume (Parfum), Water\Aqua\Eau, Benzyl Salicylate, Linalool, Limonene, Geraniol, Hydroxycitronellal, Eugenol, Hexyl Cinnamal, Coumarin, Cinnamyl Alcohol, Benzyl Alcohol, Benzyl Benzoate, Citronellol, Evernia Prunastri (Oakmoss) Extract, Citral, Amyl Cinnamal, Isoeugenol, Farnesol, Cinnamal
Informations on the packaging: © Estēe Lauder, Dist., New York, N.Y. 10022, New York · London W1K 3BQ, Paris · Milano
Brand owner (now): The Estée Lauder Companies Inc., USA - www.esteelauder.com
Made in the USA.

🅒innabar represents another perfume from which I get that orange (I mean the colour, not the fruit) synthetic smell right off the bat, the same happening with Far Away by Avon, Clin d'Œil Passionnée by Bourjois and White Diamonds by Elizabeth Taylor. Fortunately, it does not last long, so it bothers me only for a short period of time.

The first thing I thought of when I smelled it was the inside of a small and elegant female purse,

Saturday, 6 January 2018

GUILTY ABSOLUTE by Gucci (for men)


Brand: Gucci
Perfume: Guilty Absolute
Concentration: edp
Notes: WoodLeather®, GoldenWood®, Nootka cypress extract, patchouli (three forms of oil), vetiver
Ingredients: Alcohol Denat. (80% vol.), Aqua (Water), Parfum (Fragrance), Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate, Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate, BHT, Linalool, Benzyl Salicylate, Benzyl Alcohol, Hydroxycitronellal, Limonene, Alpha-Isomethyl Ionone, Geraniol, Citronellol, Eugenol, Cinnamyl Alcohol, CI 60730 (EXT.VIOLET 2), CI 15985 (YELLOW 6), CI 19140 (YELLOW 5), CI 14700 (RED 4)
Informations on the packaging: Gucci. Coty, 14 rue du Quatre Septembre, 75002 Paris. Coty US LLC, New York, NY 10118
Brand owner (now): Coty Inc., USA - www.coty.com; www.gucci.com
Made in the UK.

🅘t smells slightly rubbery in the sense of car used tires. But also like a room where gasoline was spilled on the floor throughout time and which was well cleaned, yet the scent remained partially impregnated in it. I sense this thing only if I put my nose closelly to the skin where I sprayed the fragrance. Smelling the perfume in the air, from a certain distance, I rather perceive

Monday, 1 January 2018

WONDEROUD by Comme des Garçons


Brand: Comme des Garçons pronounce in French
Perfume: Wonderoud pronounce in English
Concentration: edp
Notes: Texas cedarwood fraction OrPur, oud wood (100% natural oud extracted from
resinous Aquilaria trees grown sustainably in South East Asia), Indonesian patchouli, Australian sandalwood, Haitian vetiver, guaiac wood, Pashminol
Ingredients: Alcohol Denat. (80% vol.), Parfum (Fragrance), Aqua (Water), Limonene, Linalool, Farnesol, Citral, Coumarin, Isoeugenol, Eugenol
Informations on the packaging: Comme Des Garçons Parfum S.A., Antonio Puig S.A., Barcelona 08021, Tr de Gracia 9
Brand owner (now): Puig S.L., Spain - www.puig.com; www.comme-des-garcons-parfum.com
Made in Spain.

🅘mediately after pulverization, I clearly sense black pepper. Then I feel something which might be the scent of raw mushrooms, posibly champignon, and something else akin to dried herb roots. The biting smell that seems to "burn" a little my nostrils makes me imagine a story about how all these ingredients were macerated in alcohol for a long time, but the solution has been

Monday, 25 December 2017

AROMATICS ELIXIR by Clinique


Brand: Clinique
Perfume: Aromatics Elixir 
Concentration: parfum
Notes: top - aldehydes, coriander, chamomile, clary sage, lemon verbena, bergamot, Brazilian rosewood, geranium
             middle - carnation, tuberose, orange blossom, orris, jasmine, ylang-ylang, rose
             base - sandalwood, patchouli, musk, oakmoss, vetiver, incense
Ingredients: Alcohol Denat., Aromatics Perfume (Parfum), Water\Aqua\Eau, Benzyl Salicylate, Geraniol, Linalool, Hydroxycitronellal, Eugenol, Butylphenyl Methylpropional, Benzyl Benzoate, Hexyl Cinnamal, Citral, Benzyl Alcohol, Benzyl Cinnamate, Citronellol, Farnesol, Limonene, Coumarin, Isoeugenol, Evernia Prunastri (Oakmoss) Extract, Alpha-Isomethyl Ionone, GREEN 5 (CI 61570), YELLOW 5 (CI 19140), RED 4 (CI 14700)
Informations on the packaging: © Clinique Laboratories, Dist. New York, N.Y. 10022, WLB LTD, GU32 3DD, UK
Brand owner (now): The Estée Lauder Companies Inc., USA - www.elcompanies.com; www.clinique.com
Made in Switzerland.

🅐romatics Elixir smells like dried flowers concentrate from which the chamomile clearly stands out, very bitter, medicinally, almost devoid of sweetness, densely, and dominantly. Nevertheless, it is not sharp as it has something "round" and warmish inside. Immediately after spraying, its

Monday, 18 December 2017

CLIN D'ŒIL PASSIONNÉE by Bourjois


Brand: Bourjois pronounce in French
Perfume: Clin d'Œil Passionnée pronounce in French
Concentration: edt
Notes: jasmine, carnation, gardenia, vanilla
Ingredients: Alcohol, Aqua (Water), Parfum (Fragrance), Benzyl Salicylate, Linalool, Citronellol, Hydroxycitronellal, Alpha-Isomethyl Ionone, Eugenol, Benzyl Benzoate, Farnesol, Geraniol, Isoeugenol, Benzyl Alcohol, Cinnamal, CI 14700 (RED 4), CI 15985 (YELLOW 6), CI 42090 (BLUE 1)
Informations on the packaging: Bourjois S.A.S, 92200 Neuilly-sur-Seine, France. Distributor: Coty Cosmetics
Brand owner: Coty Inc., USA - www.coty.com; www.bourjois.fr
Made in France.

🅘 took notice of this fragrance after I had read some reviews about how it would resemble Ysatis by Givenchy, a well-known scent. I admit that I have never tried this, so I cannot comment in this regard.

Clin d'Œil Passionnée starts with the same scent that I felt in the opening of Cinnabar by Estēe LauderFar Away by Avon and White Diamonds by Elizabeth Taylor. I am talking about a slightly