Monday, 17 June 2019

OUD ASSAM by Rania J.

oud-assam-rania-j

Brand: Rania J.
Perfume: Oud Assam
Concentration: edp
Notes:* top - bergamot, sweet orange, bitter orange
             middle - Indian oud essential oil
             base - cedar wood, vetiver, frankincense, black pepper, tonka bean, musk

Ingredients: Alcohol denat. (80%), Aqua (Water), Parfum (Fragrance), Citral, Coumarin, Eugenol, Farnesol, Geraniol, Limonene, Linalool 
Informations on the packaging: Rania J. Parfumeur, Paris; J. Parfums, 128 Rue de la Boetie, 75008 Paris, France 
Brand owner (now): J. Parfums, France - raniaj.com
Made in France.

 My first reaction was to think of wood soaked in liqueur which taste/smell of dried fruits such as dates and figs, warm and sweetish at the same time. And I liked it straight away. However,

Tuesday, 14 May 2019

VIERGES ET TOREROS by État libre d'Orange

etat-libre-dorange-vierges-et-toreros

Brand: 
État Libre d'Orange pronounce in French
Perfume: Vierges et Toreros pronounce in French
Concentration: edp
Notes:* bergamot, pepper, cardamom, nutmeg, tuberose, ylang-ylang, leather, animalic base, Saussurea costus, patchouli, vetiver…

Ingredients: Alcohol denat. (80% vol.), Fragrance (Parfum), Water (Aqua), Limonene, Butylphenyl Methylpropional, Benzyl Benzoate, Amyl Cinnamal, Linalool, Citronellol, Coumarin, Farnesol, Geraniol, Hydroxycitronellal, Citral, Benzyl Salicylate, Isoeugenol, Alpha-Isomethyl Ionone, Eugenol
Informations on the packaging: Espace de Libertinage Olfactif, 69, Rue des Archives - 75003 Paris 3e, Éditions des Sens S.A.S.
Brand owner (now): Éditions des Sens S.A.S., France - www.etatlibredorange.com
Made in France.


 V ierges et Toreros starts great and three characteristics pop up in my head immediately and simultaneously which describe its odour: medicinal like a pill, pointy like an arrow, and physically cold. It reminds me of clinics, injections, and some medicine from my childhood.

Saturday, 23 March 2019

KNOWING by Estée Lauder

estee-lauder-knowing

Brand: Estée Lauder pronounce in English
Perfume: Knowing
Concentration: edp
Notes:* top - rose, tuberose, mimosa, plum, flower in the genus Pittosporum
             middle - jasmine, patchouli, bitter orange flower
             base - oakmoss, vetiver, sandalwood, amber

Ingredients: Alcohol Denat., Knowing Perfume (Parfum), Water\Aqua\Eau, Hexyl Cinnamal, Geraniol, Hydroxycitronellal, Citronellol, Alpha-Isomethyl Ionone, Linalool, Benzyl Salicylate, Butylphenyl Methylpropional, Benzyl Benzoate, Limonene, Coumarin, Farnesol, Eugenol, Cinnamyl Alcohol, Benzyl Alcohol, Isoeugenol, Citral, Anise Alcohol, Yellow 5 (CI 19140), RED 33 (CI 17200), BLUE 1 (CI 42090)
Informations on the packaging: © Estēe Lauder, Dist., New York, N.Y. 10022, New York · London W1K 3BQ, Paris · Milano
Brand owner (now): The Estée Lauder Companies Inc., USA - www.esteelauder.com
Made in Switzerland.



  tested it three years ago. I instantly loved it. The words with which I described it then were: complex, mature, elegant, sophisticated, and perfume with a big "P". Recently, I have bought a bottle of Knowing. And, lo and behold, Do Son by Diptyque (edt) strikes again. This is what I mean:

Thursday, 21 February 2019

EAU D'IPARIE by L'Occitane en Provence

loccitane-en-provence-eau-iparie

Brand: L'Occitane en Provence pronounce in French
Perfume: Eau d'Iparie pronounce in French
Concentration: edp
Notes:* top - pink peppercorn, peony
             middle - rose, cyclamen, piperonal
             base - patchouli, incense, moss, myrrh, musk

Ingredients: Alcohol, Parfum/Fragrance, Aqua/Water, Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate, Ethylhexyl Salicylate, Buthyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane, Alpha-Isomethyl Ionone, Isoeugenol, Limonene, Geraniol, Eugenol, Linalool, CI 19140 / YELLOW 5, CI 14700 / RED 4, CI 17200 / RED 33, CI 42090 / BLUE 1
Informations on the packaging: L'Occitane, 04100 Manosque, France
Brand owner (now): L'Occitane International S.A., Luxembourg - group.loccitane.com; www.loccitane.com
Made in France.



 Sprayed in the store, Eau d'Iparie felt quite simple and uninteresting. When I arrived at home, the blotting paper's smell had already changed into something different and very pleasant, so it

Saturday, 9 February 2019

BRUT ORIGINAL by Brut Parfums Prestige

brut-parfums-prestige-brut-original

Brand: Brut Parfums Prestige pronounce in French
Perfume: Brut Original pronounce in French
Concentration: edt
Notes: top - lavender, anise, lemon, basil, bergamot
           middle - geranium, ylang-ylang, jasmine
           base - sandalwood, vetiver, patchouli, oakmoss, vanilla, tonka bean

Ingredients: Alcohol Denat., Aqua, Parfum, Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate, Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane, Ethylhexyl Salicylate, BHT, Propylene Glycol, Benzyl Alcohol, Benzyl Benzoate, Benzyl Salicylate, Citral, Citronellol, Coumarin, Eugenol, Evernia Furfuracea, Geraniol, Hydroxycitronellal, Hydroxyisohexyl 3-Cyclohexene Carboxaldehyde, Limonene, Linalool, CI 14700, CI 19140
Informations on the packaging: Unilever Dept ER, Wirral CH63 3JW UK 
Brand owner (now): Unilever PLC, the UK; Unilever N.V., the Netherlands - www.unilever.com 
Made in the UK. (probably)


 B rut Original is extremely fresh, going towards the smell of cleanliness. I get no lemon, but I do perceive an aqueous vegetal nuance and I believe that the bergamot is the one contributing here. It is a floral perfume without a doubt and I'm thinking of flowers such as lilac and freesia,

Friday, 18 January 2019

ENCRE NOIRE À L`EXTRÊME by Lalique


Brand: Lalique pronounce in French
Perfume: Encre Noire à l`Extrême pronounce in French
Concentration: edp
Notes:* top - elemi, bergamot, cypress
             middle - vetiver (2 types), incense, orris
             base - Siam benzoin, sandalwood, patchouli
Ingredients: Alcohol Denat. (79% vol.), Parfum (Fragrance), Aqua (Water), Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate, Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane, Ethylhexyl Salicylate, Tris (Tetramethylhydroxypepiridinol) Citrate, Alcohol, BHT, Hexyl Cinnamal, Limonene, Linalool, Isoeugenol, Geraniol, Benzyl Benzoate, Citral, Coumarin, CI 14700 (RED 4), CI 19140 (YELLOW 5), CI 17200 (RED 33), CI 60730 (EXT VIOLET 2)
Informations on the packaging: Lalique Parfums SA - CH-8045 Zurich; Art & Fragrance Services, FR-77760 Ury; Lalique Beauty Services, FR-77760 Ury
Brand owner (now): Lalique Group SA, Switzerland - lalique-group.com; www.lalique.com
Made in France.

 An abstract, alcoholic, humid smell, powerfully peppery, which seems like inhaling palpable particles from the air. Encre Noire à l`Extrême appears woody but it sort of is not, not sensing any dryness at all. At the same time, there is also an odour resembling a champignon sliced in half.

Wednesday, 28 November 2018

PALOMA PICASSO by Paloma Picasso


Brand: Paloma Picasso
Perfume: Paloma Picasso
Concentration: edp

Notes: top - bergamot, hyacinth, rosewood
           middle - rose, mimosa, geranium, tuberose, jasmine, lily of the valley, ylang-ylang, coriander
           base - patchouli, honey, vetiver, amber, musk, civet, benzoin, oakmoss
Ingredients: Alcohol, Aqua/Water, Parfum/Fragrance, Linalool, Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate, Alpha-Isomethyl Ionone, Hydroxycitronellal, Butylphenyl Methylpropional, Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate, Limonene, Benzyl Alcohol, Hexyl Cinnamal, Eugenol, Geraniol, Citronellol, Benzyl Benzoate, BHT, Benzyl Salicylate, Farnesol, Citral, Coumarin, Cinnamyl Alcohol, Isoeugenol, Benzyl Cinnamate, Cinnamal, CI 19140 / YELLOW 5, CI 14700 / RED 4, CI 61570 / GREEN 5
Informations on the packaging: Parfums Paloma Picasso, 16, Place Vendôme, 75001 Paris, TSA 10007 F 92667 Asnieres Cedex
Brand owner (now): l'Oréal Group, France - www.loreal.com
Made in France.



 Some perfumes remind me of the aftershave scent that my father used to splash on his face in my childhood years (he had Denim Original and patchouli is probably the triggering element that links the two events for me). Paloma Picasso goes further and takes me back to the shaving

Wednesday, 24 October 2018

LE 3E HOMME DE CARON by Caron


Brand: Caron 
pronounce in French
Perfume: Le 3e Homme de Caron
 pronounce in French
Concentration: edt
Notes:* lemon from Italy, bergamot, clove, coriander, vetiver, tarragon, geranium

Ingredients: Alcohol Denat. (85% vol.), Fragrance/Parfum, Water/Aqua, Limonene, Linalool, Eugenol, Coumarin, Alpha-Isomethyl Ionone, Geraniol, Citronellol, Isoeugenol, Citral, Benzyl Alcohol, Benzyl Cinnamate, Benzyl Benzoate
Informations on the packaging: Caron Paris - 99, rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré, 75008 Paris
Brand owner (now): Cattleya Finance S.A., Luxembourg - www.parfumscaron.com
Made in France.


 The impression with which Le 3e Homme de Caron left me was straightforward: translucent hard candies with citrusy and cooking herbs flavour. But I find it hard to tell which plants are involved; I detect neither the dried tarragon leaves nor the dried coriander seeds (maybe they

Monday, 17 September 2018

CUIR ANDALOU by Rania J.


Brand: Rania J.
Perfume: Cuir Andalou pronounce in French
Concentration: edp
Notes:* top - leather, saffron, neroli
             middle - leatherrose, violet, iris, patchouli
             base - sandalwood, castoreum, oud 
Ingredients: Alcohol denat. (80% vol.), Aqua (Water), Parfum (Fragrance), Alpha-Isomethyl Ionone, Citral, Citronellol, Coumarin, Eugenol, Farnesol, Geraniol, Limonene, Linalool
Informations on the packaging: J. Parfums, 128 Rue de la Boetie, 750 08 Paris, France
Brand owner (now): J. Parfums, France - raniaj.com
Made in France.



 uir Andalou starts dense and deep. What I immediately sense can only be the leather accord which will dominate and run all the way through the fragrance existence. It is like smelling hundreds of leather objects at once: handbags, shoes etc. It is not an aggressive odour and it

Friday, 17 August 2018

INCENSE FLASH by Tauer


Brand: Tauer pronounce in German
Perfume: Incense flash
Concentration: edp (12%)
Notes:* leather, musk, woods, ambergris, Boswellia serrata extract

Ingredients: Alcohol Denat, Aqua, Parfum, Limonene, Linalool, Benzyl Benzoate, Benzyl Alcohol, Eugenol
Informations on the packaging: Made in USA for tauerville.com. Tauer GmbH, 8049, Zürich, Switzerland
Brand owner (now): Tauer GmbH, Switzerland - tauerperfumes.com 
Made in the USA. 

 T he name of the fragrance illustrates pretty well what you are going to get. Although the few words from the Incense flash official page describe it perfectly, I consider that it would make sense to go into details in order to explain it better.

The first thing that I noticed was that it reminds me of the the orthodox places of worship's scent.

Friday, 3 August 2018

DO SON by Diptyque


Brand: Diptyque pronounce in French
Perfume: Do Son pronounce in French
Concentration: edt 
Notes:* top - orange blossom leaf, iris 
             middle - tuberose, jasmin, pink pepper 
             base - benzoin, musk 
Ingredients: Alcohol Denat. (SD Alcohol 39-C) (80% vol.), Parfum (Fragrance), Aqua (Water), Linalool, Eugenol, Hydroxycitronellal, Isoeugenol, Citronellol, Benzyl Benzoate, Geraniol, Farnesol, BHT, Tocopherol 
Informations on the packaging: Diptyque SAS, 34 Bd St Germain, 75005 Paris 
Brand owner (now): Manzanita Capital Ltd., UK - www.manzanitacapital.com, www.diptyqueparis.eu 
Made in France

  I  came across Do Son through a 2 ml free sample (edt) that I received in a bricks-and-mortar perfume store in 2012 (see the picture below). The ingredients listed on the back of the cardboard packaging in which the sample was offered are the following:

Monday, 16 July 2018

JONTUE by Revlon


Brand: Revlon
Perfume: Jontue
Concentration: edc
Notes: top - gardenia, bergamot, chamomile, cypress, rose
           middle - mimosa, tuberose, ylang-ylang, sage, geranium
           base - musk, benzoin, oakmoss, vetiver, patchouli

Ingredients: Alcohol Denat., Aqua ((Water) Eau), Parfum (Fragrance), Benzyl Salicylate, BHT, Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate, Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate, Linalool, Limonene, Hexyl Cinnamal, Alpha-Isomethyl Ionone, Amyl Cinnamal, Benzyl Benzoate, Citronellol, Eugenol, Geraniol, Hydroxycitronellal, Coumarin, Citral, Benzyl Alcohol, Farnesol, Isoeugenol, ORANGE 4 (CI 15510), BLUE 1 (CI 42090)
Informations on the packaging: ®Revlon Cons. Prod. Corp., New York, NY 10017
Brand owner (now): Revlon, Inc., USA - www.revloninc.com, www.revlon.com
Made in the USA.


Was Jontue a good perfume at the moment of its first launch? I have no idea. Some voices claim that it differed from the one that is selling now. As I cannot comment on either of the two previous statements, I will approach the problem the other way around. I will consider Jontue, in

Monday, 25 June 2018

PARFUM DE PEAU by Montana


Brand: Montana
Perfume: Parfum de Peau
 pronounce in French
Concentration: edt
Notes:* top - blackcurrant, pepper, cardamom, marigold, ginger
             middle - rose, tuberose, narcissus, carnation
             base - amber, cedar, patchouli, olibanum, vetiver, oakmoss, musk, castoreum, civet 
Ingredients: Alcohol Denat. (79% vol.), Aqua (Water), Parfum (Fragrance), Benzyl Benzoate, Hydroxyisohexyl 3-Cyclohexene Carboxaldehyde, Alpha-Isomethyl Ionone, Geraniol, Benzyl Salicylate, Citronellol, Evernia Prunastri (Oakmoss) Extract, Limonene, Farnesol, Hexyl Cinnamal, Benzyl Alcohol, Propylene Glycol, Hydroxycitronellal, Linalool, Eugenol, Coumarin, Anise Alcohol, Citral, Cinnamyl Alcohol, CI 14700 (RED 4)
Informations on the packaging: Montana Parfums, Empire of Scents - 17, rue Alfred Roll, 75017 Paris, France
Brand owner (now): Empire of Scents SAS, France - www.parfums-montana.com
Made in France.

 P arfum de Peau is one of those fragrances that smell different according to the skin on which they are pulverized. Someone from my entourage (a mature person) used the scent from my bottle and I must say that I feel it kind of distinct on her: citrusy, airy, carefree, uncomplicated, youthful.

Saturday, 2 June 2018

AMBRE by L'Occitane en Provence


Brand: L'Occitane en Provence pronounce in French
Perfume: Ambre pronounce in French
Concentration: edp
Notes:* top - bergamot, freesia
             middle - labdanum, tonka bean
             base - amber, vanilla, cedar

Ingredients: Alcohol, Parfum/Fragrance, Aqua/Water, Cistus Ladaniferus Resin, Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate, Ethylhexyl Salicylate, Buthyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane, Coumarin, Limonene, Linalool, Benzyl Alcohol, Citral, CI 19140 / YELLOW 5, CI 17200 / RED 33, CI 14700 / RED 4
Informations on the packaging: L'Occitane, 04100 Manosque, France
Brand owner (now): L'Occitane International S.A., Luxembourg - group.loccitane.com; www.loccitane.com
Made in France.

  I  tested Ambre in the store, on the skin. I clearly sensed a resinous note and something sweet, but not excessive. Although it did not fill me with enthusiasm, I bought it the same day. After having it sprayed a few times, I arrived to perceive it differently since it settled down into a 

Saturday, 5 May 2018

ROMANCE IN MIDDLESEX COUNTY by Barrister and Mann


Brand: Barrister and Mann
Perfume: Romance in Middlesex County
Concentration: edp

Notes:* top - apricot, tangerine, ho wood, cardamom
             middle - coffee, lily of the valley, fresh laundry
             base - jasmine (4.4% of Egyptian jasmine absolute and Indian jasmine distillate), tobacco, musk, oakmoss, sandalwood
Ingredients: Alcohol Denat., Fragrance, d-Limonene, Linalool, Butylphenyl Methylpropional, Evernia Prunastri (Oakmoss) Extract, Benzyl Benzoate, Hexyl Cinnamaldehyde, Benzyl Alcohol, Citral, Eugenol, Geraniol, Hydroxycitronellal, Farnesol, Benzyl Salicylate, 3-Methyl-4-(2,6,6-trimethyl-2-cyclohexen-1-yl)-3-buten-2-one, Isoeugenol, Citronellol
Informations on the packaging: Barrister and Mann
Brand owner (now): Barrister and Mann LLC, USA -
 www.barristerandmann.com
Made in the USA.

 A t first, Romance in Middlesex County has a slightly peculiar and metallic smell. But after one minute, it unwinds and everything is alright.
Then I start to feel some spice. It surely is the cardamom. Contrary to its abstract and cold nature, it behaves differently here. It is well wrapped by the other ingredients, so the result is a warmish cardamom note.