L'ENVOL by Cartier (edt)

Brand: Cartier ^{pronounce in French}
Perfume: L'envol ^{pronounce in French} 
Concentration: edt
Notes:* citrus fruits, guaiac wood, hydromel
♔Ingredients: Alcohol (77% vol.), Parfum (Fragrance), Aqua (Water), Limonene, Alpha-Isomethyl Ionone, Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate, Linalool, Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate, Ethylhexyl Salicylate, BHT, Coumarin, Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane, Citral, Benzyl Benzoate, Geraniol, Farnesol, Isoeugenol, CI 14700 (Red N°4) CI 15985 (Yellow N°6), CI 19140 (Yellow N°5)
♔Information on the packaging: © Cartier. Parfum Cartier, 33 rue Boissy d'Anglas, 75008, Paris
♔Brand owner (now): Richemont International SA, Switzerland - www.cartier.com, www.richemont.com
♔Made in France.

 Many years ago, I tested it in a store together with the eau de parfum. I was not impressed with the latter—it had a slight cucumber facet that went in the direction of Ambre Noir by Yves

OUD ESSENTIEL by Guerlain

Brand: Guerlain ^{pronounce in French} 
Perfume: Oud essentiel ^{pronounce in French} 
Concentration: edp
Notes: saffron, oud, cedarwood, leather, frankincense
♔Ingredients: Alcohol, Parfum (Fragrance), Aqua (Water), Citronellol, Geraniol, Limonene, Farnesol, Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate, Linalool, Eugenol, Citral, Benzyl Alcohol, Isoeugenol
♔Information on the packaging: © Copyright Guerlain. Guerlain - 68, Champs-Élysées, 75008 Paris, UK KT12 4NH
♔Brand owner (now): LVMH Moët Hennessy – Louis Vuitton SE, France - www.lvmh.com, www.guerlain.com
♔Made in France.

  It smells medicinal, citrussy and sour, and my mind goes to the essential oil of Rhododendron anthopogon.

There it is also a bitterness which goes hand in hand with the medicinal aspect and recalls the

GIRL by Pharrell Williams (with Comme des garçons)

Brand: Pharrell Williams
Perfume: Girl
Concentration: edp
Notes: top - neroli, lavender, white pepper
           middle - iris, styrax, violet
           base - patchouli, sandalwood, cedar
♔Ingredients: Alcohol Denat. (79% vol.), Fragrance (Parfum), Water (Aqua), Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate (Octyl Methoxycinnamate), Limonene, Butylphenyl Methylpropional, Coumarin, Alpha-Isomethyl Ionone, Benzyl Salicylate, Ethylhexyl Salicylate (Octyl Salicylate), Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane, Linalool, Geraniol, Amyl Cinnamal, Citronellol, Citral
♔Information on the packaging: Made in France by Comme des garçons parfum S.A., 16 Place Vendôme, 75001, Paris
♔Brand owner (now): ---
♔Made in France.

 What mostly intrigues me about Girl is what feels like a starchy element. It makes me think of that time when I took a bite of a crunchy green apple and my mouth filled with a floury juice,

VARENSIA by Ulric de Varens

Brand: Ulric de Varens ^{pronounce in French} 
Perfume: Varensia
Concentration: edp
Notes:* top - aldehydes, bergamot orange, raspberry, cloves
             middle - jasmine, rose, geranium, ylang-ylang, lotus flower
             base - patchouli, vetiver, sandalwood, cistus, vanilla, benzoin

♔Ingredients: Alcohol Denat. (80% vol.), Aqua (Water), Parfum (Fragrance), Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane, Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate, Alpha-Isomethyl Ionone, Amyl Cinnamal, Benzyl Alcohol, Benzyl Benzoate, Benzyl Cinnamate, Benzyl Salicylate, Cinnamyl Alcohol, Citral, Citronellol, Coumarin, Eugenol, Evernia Prunastri (Oakmoss) Extract, Geraniol, Hydroxycitronellal, Isoeugenol, Limonene, Linalool, CI 19140 (FD&C Yellow n°5), CI 14700 (FD&C Red 4), CI 17200 (D&C Red 33)

♔Information on the packaging: Parfums Ulric de Varens, 6 rue de Berri, 75008, Paris

♔Brand owner (now): --- - ulric-de-varens.com

♔Made in France.

 Varensia smells fruity and creamy. The fruit is more in the apricot-peach territory, barely jammy, maybe with a slight tropical nuance, and here I am thinking of pineapple, which adds a

CAP NÉROLI by Nicolaï parfumeur-créateur

Brand: Nicolaï parfumeur-créateur ^{pronounce in French} 
Perfume: Cap néroli ^{pronounce in French} 
Concentration: edt
Notes:* top - bitter orange petitgrain, orange essential oil, mandarin essential oil, rosemary essential oil, peppermint essential oil
             middle - néroli, ylang-ylang essential oil, jasmine absolute, orange blossom absolute, eau de brouts
             base - oakmoss, musk, amber
♔Ingredients: Alcohol Denat., Parfum (Fragrance), Limonene, Hexyl Cinnamal, Alpha-Isomethyl Ionone, Benzyl Alcohol, Benzyl Salicylate, Linalool, Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate, Cinnamyl Alcohol, Citral, Benzyl Benzoate, Ethylhexyl Salicylate, Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane, Isoeugenol, Geraniol, Farnesol, Coumarin
♔Information on the packaging: ©Nicolaï Parfumeur-Créateur, 69, avenue Raymond Poincaré, 75116 Paris, France
♔Brand owner (now): JLM Expansion S.A.R.L., France - www.pnicolai.com 
♔Made in France.

 Citrussy, vegetal and bitter, Cap néroli seems a blend of lemon juice and zest, leaves and a green, floral element. It smells alive, full of energy, vertical and uplifting. At this stage, it has a

EAU D'IKAR by Sisley

Brand: Sisley
Perfume: Eau d'Ikar ^{pronounce in French}
Concentration: edt
Notes: top - bergamot, carrot seeds, bitter orange, Amalfi lemon
           middle - lentisque, iris, green notes, tea, reed, spices, jasmine
           base - vetiver, sandalwood, ambergris
♔Ingredients: Alcohol Denat. (79% vol.), Water/Eau (Aqua), Fragrance (Parfum), Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane, Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate, Ethylhexyl Salicylate, BHT. (cont. Limonene, Alpha-Isomethyl Ionone, Linalool, Coumarin, Citral, Evernia Furfuracea Extract, Citronellol, Geraniol)
♔Information on the packaging: C.F.E.B. Sisley, 16, avenue George-V, 75008, Paris
♔Brand owner (now): --- - www.sisley-paris.com
♔Made in France.

  I t smells of body milk, slightly tart, uncrushed green leaves, and dry vegetation in the vein of hay, all at once. The sweetness is almost missing, conveying it a unisex, nearly masculine

BARÉNIA by Hermès

Brand: Hermès ^{pronounce in French}
Perfume: Barénia
Concentration: edp
Notes:* butterfly lily from Robertet, miracle berry, roasted oakwood from LMR** (IFF), patchouli from Robertet, Akigalawood® from Givaudan

♔Ingredients: Alcohol (79% vol.), Parfum (Fragrance), Aqua (Water), Benzyl Salicylate, Limonene, Ethylhexyl Salicylate, Geraniol, Hexyl Cinnamal, Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane, Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate, Linalool, Citronellol, Benzyl Alcohol, Benzyl Benzoate, Farnesol, Isoeugenol, Citral, Tris(Tetramethylhydroxypiperidinol) Citrate, Eugenol
♔Information on the packaging: Hermès Parfums, 23, rue Boissy d'Anglas, 75008 Paris, GB SWIX 9PX UK
♔Brand owner (now): --- - www.hermes.com
♔Made in France.

 One word describes it immediately: fruity. It feels like a mixture of blackcurrants and blackberries, with the tartness of the former counterbalanced by the softness of the latter. Two

BEL AMI by Hermès

Brand: Hermès ^{pronounce in French}
Perfume: Bel ami ^{pronounce in French}
Concentration: edt
Notes:* patchouli, leather, Cistus ladanifer
♔Ingredients: Alcohol (80% vol.), Aqua (Water), Parfum (Fragrance), Limonene, Linalool, Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate, Eugenol, Ethylhexyl Salicylate, Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane, BHT, Coumarin, Citral, Evernia Prunastri (Oakmoss) Extract, Geraniol, Cinnamal, Benzyl Benzoate, Farnesol, Citronellol, Isoeugenol, CI 17200 (Red 33)
♔Information on the packaging: Hermès Parfums, 23, rue Boissy d'Anglas, 75008 Paris. GB SWIX 9PX UK
♔Brand owner (now): ---
♔Made in France.

  I  smell something bitter and aromatic very similar to a herb found on the kitchen spice rack. It could be the tarragon also present in Le 3e homme by Caron.

MAL-AIMÉ by Parfum d'Empire

Brand: Parfum d'Empire ^{pronounce in French} 
Perfume: Mal-aimé ^{pronounce in French} 
Concentration: edp
Notes:* Dittrichia graveolens essential oil, thistle, nettle, bramble, roots
♔Ingredients: Alcohol Denat. (80% vol.), Parfum (Fragrance), Aqua (Water), Benzyl Salicylate, Hydroxycitronellal, Eugenol, Methyl 2-Octyonate, Linalool, Limonene, Citronellol, Geraniol, Farnesol, Citral, Benzyl Benzoate, Benzyl Alcohol, Cinnamal
♔Information on the packaging: Viastella - 6, rue Barye, 75017, Paris, France
♔Brand owner (now): Viastella SAS, France - parfumdempire.com
♔Made in France.

 Although it has its own personality, I perceive elements from other fragrances in Mal-aimé.

The perfume emanates a warm, sun-baked smell, similar to the fenugreek seeds that I have in

A QUIET MORNING, by Miller et Bertaux

Brand: Miller et Bertaux ^{pronounce in French}
Perfume: a quiet morning,
Concentration: edp
Notes:* top - turmeric, saffron, basmati rice
             middle - palm tree flowers, orange tree flowers
             base - Indian sandalwood, Tibetan cedarwood
♔Ingredients: Alcohol Denat., Parfum/Fragrance, Cinnamal, Eugenol, Farnesol, Limonene
♔Information on the packaging: Miller et Bertaux parfums. Lothantique, 04310 Peyruis, France
♔Brand owner (now): Lothantique SAS, France - www.milleretbertaux.com
♔Made in France.

 T he major player here is the citrus, a quite bitter one actually. I position its odour somewhere in between the lemon pulp put in a mug with boiled water and the lemon zest. It reminds me of

BOIS BÉLIZE INTENSE by Nicolaï parfumeur-créateur

Brand: Nicolaï parfumeur-créateur ^{pronounce in French}
Perfume: Bois Bélize intense ^{pronounce in French}
Concentration: edp
Notes:* top - bergamot essential oil, osmanthus absolute, ambrette seeds absolute
             middle - rose, cardamom essential oil, clove essential oil
             base - guaiac wood essential oil, patchouli essential oil, maté leaves absolute, vetiver, oakmoss, musk
♔Ingredients: Alcohol Denat., Parfum (Fragrance), Aqua (Water), Limonene, Linalool, Geraniol, Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate, Eugenol, Citral, Ethylhexyl Salicylate, Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane, Isoeugenol
♔Information on the packaging: ©Nicolaï Parfumeur-Créateur, 69, avenue Raymond Poincaré, 75116 Paris, France
♔Brand owner (now): JLM Expansion S.A.R.L., France - www.pnicolai.com
♔Made in France.

  The initial spray reveals most of the facets: soapy, citrussy, bitter, salty, sweet, metallic and mothball-like. They seem to have been added in equal parts. I also smell a fizzy element and a

2 MAN by Comme des garçons

Brand: Comme des garçons ^{pronounce in French}
Perfume: 2 Man
Concentration: edt
Notes:* incense, white smoke, saffron, nutmeg, kumquat, mint, vetiver, mahogany wood, leather
♔Ingredients: Alcohol Denat. (80%), Parfum (Fragrance), Aqua (Water), Limonene, Linalool, Eugenol, Geraniol, Alpha-Isomethyl Ionone, Benzyl Benzoate, Citral, Farnesol
♔Information on the packaging: Antonio Puig S.A., Barcelona 08902, PL Europa 46, London WC1B 5EH
♔Brand owner (now): Antonio Puig S.A., Spain - www.puig.com; comme-des-garcons-parfum.com
♔Made in Spain.

 I  initially tested it from an original 1,5 ml sample and I clearly felt parts from Rien by État libre d'Orange and Gomma by Etro. I said that it was less intrusive than the two. Now, after wearing it

SALUTE ! by Parfum d'Empire

Brand: Parfum d'Empire ^{pronounce in French}
Perfume: Salute !  ^{pronounce in Italian}
Concentration: edp
Notes:* lemon essential oil, grapefruit essential oil, mandarin essential oil, vine leaf accord, wine-dreg extract** (with rose and eau de vie facets), iris, powdery musks
♔Ingredients: Alcohol Denat., Parfum (Fragrance), Aqua (Water), Limonene, Hexyl Cinnamal, Benzyl Salicylate, Citral, Alpha-Isomethyl Ionone, Linalool, Amyl Cinnamal, Eugenol, Geraniol, Farnesol, Citronellol, Benzyl Benzoate, Benzyl Alcohol, Coumarin
♔Information on the packaging: 6, rue Barye, 75017, Paris, France
♔Brand owner (now): Viastella SAS, France - parfumdempire.com
♔Made in France.

 T he fragrance begins with an interesting spikiness. It is not that type that tingles the nostrils and disturbs some people. More present on the initial spray, it calms down after a minute. It

VETIVER by Etro

Brand: Etro
Perfume: Vetiver
Concentration: edt
Notes:* top - Salvia sclarea, artemisia, bergamot, petitgrain
             middle - orris, vetiver, guaiac wood
             base - amber, plant from the genus Nicotiana
♔Ingredients: Alcohol Denat., Parfum (Fragrance), Aqua (Water), Isoeugenol, Linalool
♔Information on the packaging: Etro, via Spartaco 3, Milano. Stab. Cantù
♔Brand owner (now): Etro S.p.A., Italy - www.etro.com
♔Made in Italy.

 Vetiver by Etro smells of button/portobello mushrooms, baked peanuts, dry and crumbly earth which makes me think of unpeeled potatoes and sand, and also metallic (but not in a disturbing

CRAVACHE by Robert Piguet (edt)

Brand: Robert Piguet ^{pronounce in French}
Perfume: Cravache ^{pronounce in French}
Concentration: edt
Notes: top - mandarin, lemon, petitgrain
            middle - lavender, nutmeg, sage
            base - vetiver, patchouli, oakmoss
♔Ingredients: Alcohol Denat., Fragrance (Parfum), Water (Aqua), Limonene, Linalool, Alpha-Isomethyl Ionone, Benzyl Salicylate, Citral, Citronellol, Coumarin, Eugenol, Evernia Furfuracea (Tree Moss) Extract, Farnesol, Geraniol, Hexyl Cinnamal, Hydroxycitronellal, Isoeugenol
♔Information on the packaging: Fashion Fragrances & Cosmetics, 41, rue de Dampmart, 77400 Thorigny sur Marne, France. Fashion Fragrances & Cosmetics Ltd, New York 10018. Fashion Fragrances & Cosmetics B.V., 1185 VB Amstelveen, The Netherlands
♔Brand owner (now): Fashion Fragrances & Cosmetics Ltd., USA - robertpiguetparfumseu.com
♔Made in France.

  I  am getting a lemon-like citrussy note, dense, vegetal and sour at the same time; it is as if I am smelling a big dose of bergamot. It makes me picture a bathroom full of steam where