Monday, 17 September 2018

CUIR ANDALOU by Rania J.


Brand: Rania J.
Perfume: Cuir Andalou pronounce in French
Concentration: edp
Notes: leather, rose, orris, petitgrain, patchouli, saffron, violet, castoreum, vetiver, sandalwood, oud 
Ingredients: Alcohol denat. (80% vol.), Aqua (Water), Parfum (Fragrance), Alpha-Isomethyl Ionone, Citral, Citronellol, Coumarin, Eugenol, Farnesol, Geraniol, Limonene, Linalool
Informations on the packaging: J. Parfums, 128 Rue de la Boetie, 750 08 Paris, France
Brand owner (now): J. Parfums, France - www.raniaj.com
Made in France.



 uir Andalou starts dense and deep. What I immediately sense can only be the leather accord which will dominate and run all the way through the fragrance existence. It is like smelling hundreds of leather objects at once: handbags, shoes etc. It is not an aggressive odour and it

Friday, 17 August 2018

INCENSE FLASH by Tauer


Brand: Tauer pronounce in German
Perfume: Incense flash
Concentration: edp (12%)
Notes:* leather, musk, woods, ambergris, Boswellia serrata extract

Ingredients: Alcohol Denat, Aqua, Parfum, Limonene, Linalool, Benzyl Benzoate, Benzyl Alcohol, Eugenol
Informations on the packaging: Made in USA for tauerville.com. Tauer GmbH, 8049, Zürich, Switzerland
Brand owner (now): Tauer GmbH, Switzerland - tauerperfumes.com 
Made in the USA. 

 T he name of the fragrance illustrates pretty well what you are going to get. Although the few words from the Incense flash official page describe it perfectly, I consider that it would make sense to go into details in order to explain it better.

The first thing that I noticed was that it reminds me of the the orthodox places of worship's scent.

Friday, 3 August 2018

DO SON by Diptyque


Brand: Diptyque pronounce in French
Perfume: Do Son pronounce in French
Concentration: edt 
Notes:* top - orange blossom leaf, iris 
             middle - tuberose, jasmin, pink pepper 
             base - benzoin, musk 
Ingredients: Alcohol Denat. (SD Alcohol 39-C) (80% vol.), Parfum (Fragrance), Aqua (Water), Linalool, Eugenol, Hydroxycitronellal, Isoeugenol, Citronellol, Benzyl Benzoate, Geraniol, Farnesol, BHT, Tocopherol 
Informations on the packaging: Diptyque SAS, 34 Bd St Germain, 75005 Paris 
Brand owner (now): Manzanita Capital Ltd., UK - www.manzanitacapital.com, www.diptyqueparis.eu 
Made in France

  I  came across Do Son through a 2 ml free sample (edt) that I received in a bricks-and-mortar perfume store in 2012 (see the picture below). The ingredients listed on the back of the cardboard packaging in which the sample was offered are the following:

Monday, 16 July 2018

JONTUE by Revlon


Brand: Revlon
Perfume: Jontue
Concentration: edc
Notes: top - gardenia, bergamot, chamomile, cypress, rose
           middle - mimosa, tuberose, ylang-ylang, sage, geranium
           base - musk, benzoin, oakmoss, vetiver, patchouli

Ingredients: Alcohol Denat., Aqua ((Water) Eau), Parfum (Fragrance), Benzyl Salicylate, BHT, Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate, Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate, Linalool, Limonene, Hexyl Cinnamal, Alpha-Isomethyl Ionone, Amyl Cinnamal, Benzyl Benzoate, Citronellol, Eugenol, Geraniol, Hydroxycitronellal, Coumarin, Citral, Benzyl Alcohol, Farnesol, Isoeugenol, ORANGE 4 (CI 15510), BLUE 1 (CI 42090)
Informations on the packaging: ®Revlon Cons. Prod. Corp., New York, NY 10017
Brand owner (now): Revlon, Inc., USA - www.revloninc.com, www.revlon.com
Made in the USA.


Was Jontue a good perfume at the moment of its first launch? I have no idea. Some voices claim that it differed from the one that is selling now. As I cannot comment on either of the two previous statements, I will approach the problem the other way around. I will consider Jontue, in

Monday, 25 June 2018

PARFUM DE PEAU by Montana


Brand: Montana
Perfume: Parfum de Peau
 pronounce in French
Concentration: edt
Notes:* top - blackcurrant, pepper, cardamom, marigold, ginger
             middle - rose, tuberose, narcissus, carnation
             base - amber, cedar, patchouli, olibanum, vetiver, oakmoss, musk, castoreum, civet 
Ingredients: Alcohol Denat. (79% vol.), Aqua (Water), Parfum (Fragrance), Benzyl Benzoate, Hydroxyisohexyl 3-Cyclohexene Carboxaldehyde, Alpha-Isomethyl Ionone, Geraniol, Benzyl Salicylate, Citronellol, Evernia Prunastri (Oakmoss) Extract, Limonene, Farnesol, Hexyl Cinnamal, Benzyl Alcohol, Propylene Glycol, Hydroxycitronellal, Linalool, Eugenol, Coumarin, Anise Alcohol, Citral, Cinnamyl Alcohol, CI 14700 (RED 4)
Informations on the packaging: Montana Parfums, Empire of Scents - 17, rue Alfred Roll, 75017 Paris, France
Brand owner (now): Empire of Scents SAS, France - www.parfums-montana.com
Made in France.

 P arfum de Peau is one of those fragrances that smell different according to the skin on which they are pulverized. Someone from my entourage (a mature person) used the scent from my bottle and I must say that I feel it kind of distinct on her: citrusy, airy, carefree, uncomplicated, youthful.

Saturday, 2 June 2018

AMBRE by l'Occitane en Provence


Brand: l'Occitane en Provence pronounce in French
Perfume: Ambre pronounce in French
Concentration: edp
Notes:* top - bergamot, freesia
             middle - labdanum, tonka bean
             base - amber, vanilla, cedar

Ingredients: Alcohol, Parfum/Fragrance, Aqua/Water, Cistus Ladaniferus Resin, Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate, Ethylhexyl Salicylate, Buthyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane, Coumarin, Limonene, Linalool, Benzyl Alcohol, Citral, CI 19140/YELLOW 5, CI 17200/RED 33, CI 14700/RED 4
Informations on the packaging: l'Occitane, 04100 Manosque, France
Brand owner (now): l'Occitane International S.A., Luxembourg - group.loccitane.com; www.loccitane.com
Made in France.

  I  tested Ambre in the store, on the skin. I clearly sensed a resinous note and something sweet, but not excessive. Although it did not fill me with enthusiasm, I bought it the same day. After having it sprayed a few times, I arrived to perceive it differently since it settled down into a 

Saturday, 5 May 2018

ROMANCE IN MIDDLESEX COUNTY by Barrister and Mann


Brand: Barrister and Mann
Perfume: Romance in Middlesex County
Concentration: edp

Notes:* top - apricot, tangerine, ho wood, cardamom
             middle - coffee, lily of the valley, fresh laundry
             base - jasmine (4.4% of Egyptian jasmine absolute and Indian jasmine distillate), tobacco, musk, oakmoss, sandalwood
Ingredients: Alcohol Denat., Fragrance, d-Limonene, Linalool, Butylphenyl Methylpropional, Evernia Prunastri (Oakmoss) Extract, Benzyl Benzoate, Hexyl Cinnamaldehyde, Benzyl Alcohol, Citral, Eugenol, Geraniol, Hydroxycitronellal, Farnesol, Benzyl Salicylate, 3-Methyl-4-(2,6,6-trimethyl-2-cyclohexen-1-yl)-3-buten-2-one, Isoeugenol, Citronellol
Informations on the packaging: Barrister and Mann
Brand owner (now): Barrister and Mann LLC, USA -
 www.barristerandmann.com
Made in the USA.

 A t first, Romance in Middlesex County has a slightly peculiar and metallic smell. But after one minute, it unwinds and everything is alright.
Then I start to feel some spice. It surely is the cardamom. Contrary to its abstract and cold nature, it behaves differently here. It is well wrapped by the other ingredients, so the result is a warmish cardamom note.

Sunday, 15 April 2018

EAU DE LANCASTER by Lancaster


Brand: Lancaster
Perfume: Eau de Lancaster 
pronounce in French 
Concentration: edt
Notes: top - bergamot, mandarin, lavender, coriander, basil
           middle - jasmin, lily, peach, rosewood, floral notes
           base - oakmoss, amber, vanilla
Ingredients: Alcohol Denat., Aqua/Water/Eau, Parfum/Fragrance, Alpha-Isomethyl Ionone, Benzophenone-3, Benzyl Benzoate, Benzyl Salicylate, BHT, Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane, Butylphenyl Methylpropional, Cinnamal, Cinnamyl Alcohol, Citral, Citronellol, Coumarin, Ethylhexyl Salicylate, Eugenol, Geraniol, Hexyl Cinnamal, Hydroxycitronellal, Hydroxyisohexyl 3-Cyclohexene Carboxaldehyde, Limonene, Linalool, D&C RED N°33 (CI 17200), FD&C BLUE N°1 (CI 42090), FD&C YELLOW N°5 (CI 19140)
Informations on the packaging: Dist. Coty Prestige · Monaco · 75002 Paris. Coty US LLC, New York, NY 10016. Coty Canada, Inc. Dorval Quebec H9P 2V4
Brand owner (now): Coty Inc., USA - www.coty.com; www.lancaster-beauty.com
Made in France.


 Citrusy. This was my first thought that came to my mind. But it is not an austere, airy and vaporous citrus; it has body. This olfactory note invests the fragrance with life. Furthermore, I feel nothing harsh. I do no sense it to be either succulent or dry. The perfume sits somewhere in the middle. It emanates the ebullience specific to citruses' pulp, only that it does it in a reserved register of intensity, the rind's flavour also being present.

Saturday, 31 March 2018

SECRET DE ROCHAS - OUD MYSTÈRE by Rochas


Brand: Rochas pronounce in French
Perfume: Secret de Rochas - Oud Mystère pronounce in French
Concentration: edp
Notes: saffron, rose, gardenia, agarwood, spices, patchouli, olibanum, woodsy notes
Ingredients: Alcohol Denat., Parfum (Fragrance), Aqua (Water), Benzyl Salicylate, Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate, Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate, BHT, Citronellol, Geraniol, Hydroxyisohexyl 3-Cyclohexene Carboxaldehyde, Hydroxycitronellal, Coumarin, Linalool, Limonene, Amyl Cinnamal, Citral, Hexyl Cinnamal, CI 19140 (YELLOW 5), CI 17200 (RED 33), CI 60730 (EXT. VIOLET 2), CI 42090 (BLUE 1)
Informations on the packaging: Parfums Rochas S.A.S., 17, rue de Miromesnil, F-75008 Paris
Brand owner (now): Interparfums SA, France - www.interparfums.fr; rochas.com
Made in France.

  I t smells of lemon peel and not juicy. The rind's quintessential bitterness does not stand out in relief in an excessive manner, but I can feel it. Is seems as if the scent is that of a tisane made out of lemons peel (if such a thing exists). The odour is calm and mellow as it does not have that freshness and sparkle of the citrus fruit pulp.

Wednesday, 21 March 2018

OPEN by Roger & Gallet


Brand: Roger & Gallet pronounce in French
Perfume: Open
Notes: top - Amalfi lemon, bergamot, lavender
           middle - sage, thyme
           base - tobacco, patchouli, vetiver

Ingredients: Alcohol, Aqua/Water, Parfum/Fragrance, Limonene, Linalool, Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane, Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate, Eugenol, Butylphenyl Methylpropional, Benzyl Salicylate, Hydroxycitronellal, Geraniol, Coumarin, Citronellol, Hexyl Cinnamal, Benzyl Alcohol, Triethanolamine, Citral, Cinnamal, Isoeugenol, Alpha-Isomethyl Ionone, Cinnamyl Alcohol, Benzyl Benzoate, CI 14700/RED 4
Informations on the packaging: Roger & Gallet, 3, avenue Saint-Anne, 92602 Asnieres Cedex, TSA 10007 F 92667 Asnieres Cedex
Brand owner (now): L'Oréal Group, France - www.loreal.com; www.roger-gallet.com
Made in France.

 Open is one of those fragrances that sparked my imagination the moment I sniffed it.

I immediately told myself that it smells vintage, like a perfume from another era, and oldish. In just a few seconds, my brain illustrated to me the thing I was thinking of. Well, the picture of an aged man composed in my head, undoubtedly British (not sure why), standing somewhere on a footway, the pavement covered in brown and golden leaves. It was evidently autumn, the air

Friday, 9 March 2018

ONE LOVE by Jean-Louis Scherrer


Brand: Jean-Louis Scherrer pronounce in French
Perfume: One Love
Concentration: edp
Notes: top - violet leaf, lemon, mimosa, bergamot, saffron
           middle - woody notes, magnolia, lilac, iris
           base - oakmoss, ambrette, vetiver

Ingredients: Alcohol Denat. (SD Alcohol 39-C), Parfum (Fragrance), Aqua (Water), Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate, Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate, BHT, Citronellol, Alpha-Isomethyl Ionone, Hydroxycitronellal, Limonene, Linalool, Geraniol, Citral, Benzyl Alcohol
Informations on the packaging: SA Designer Parfums Ltd, WD24 7JG, England
Brand owner (now): SA Designer Parfums Ltd, England - www.designerparfums.com; www.parfumsscherrer.com
Made in France.

 J ust like with Jean-Louis Scherrer by Jean-Louis Scherrer, my first impression of this scent was pretty weak. It did not strike a chord too much and I wondered if I did not make a mistake buying it. However, One Love revealed its true beautiful face only later when it got me captivated.

Saturday, 3 March 2018

AROMATICS IN WHITE by Clinique


Brand: Clinique
Perfume: Aromatics in White
Concentration: edp
Notes: top - Sichuan pepper, violet leaf, labdanum
           middle - orange blossom, rose, patchouli
           base - amber, musk, benzoin, vanilla

Ingredients: Alcohol Denat., Fragrance (Parfum), Water\Aqua\Eau, Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate, Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane, Ethylhexyl Salicylate, Geraniol, Linalool, Citronellol, Alpha-Isomethyl Ionone, Limonene, Coumarin, Citral, Benzyl Benzoate, Methyl 2-Octynoate, Isoeugenol
Informations on the packaging: © Clinique Labs., Dist. N.Y., N.Y. 10022, London W1K 3BQ Z9F7
Brand owner (now): The Estée Lauder Companies Inc., USA - www.elcompanies.com; www.clinique.com
Made in Switzerland.

 First of all, I feel it is important to say that Aromatics in White has no olfactory resemblance to Aromatics Elixir. And, in spite of that, the bottles and the names of the two are almost identical. I think the reason of this situation is pretty obvious: the company made use of the famous fragrance from its portofolio in order to get Aromatics in White noticed by the public and

Tuesday, 16 January 2018

CINNABAR by Estée Lauder


Brand: Estée Lauder pronounce in English
Perfume: Cinnabar pronounce in English 
Concentration: edp
Notes:* top - jasmine, bitter orange flower, tangerine
             middle - clove, muguet, lilly
             base - olibanum, sandalwood, patchouli

Ingredients: Alcohol Denat., Cinnabar Perfume (Parfum), Water\Aqua\Eau, Benzyl Salicylate, Linalool, Limonene, Geraniol, Hydroxycitronellal, Eugenol, Hexyl Cinnamal, Coumarin, Cinnamyl Alcohol, Benzyl Alcohol, Benzyl Benzoate, Citronellol, Evernia Prunastri (Oakmoss) Extract, Citral, Amyl Cinnamal, Isoeugenol, Farnesol, Cinnamal
Informations on the packaging: © Estēe Lauder, Dist., New York, N.Y. 10022, New York · London W1K 3BQ, Paris · Milano
Brand owner (now): The Estée Lauder Companies Inc., USA - www.esteelauder.com
Made in the USA.

 Cinnabar represents another perfume from which I get that orange (I mean the colour, not the fruit) synthetic smell right off the bat, the same happening with Far Away by Avon, Clin d'Œil Passionnée by Bourjois and White Diamonds by Elizabeth Taylor. Fortunately, it does not last long, so it bothers me only for a short period of time.

Saturday, 6 January 2018

GUILTY ABSOLUTE by Gucci (for men)


Brand: Gucci
Perfume: Guilty Absolute
Concentration: edp
Notes:* WoodLeather®, GoldenWood®, Nootka cypress extract, patchouli (three forms of oil), vetiver
Ingredients: Alcohol Denat. (80% vol.), Aqua (Water), Parfum (Fragrance), Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate, Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate, BHT, Linalool, Benzyl Salicylate, Benzyl Alcohol, Hydroxycitronellal, Limonene, Alpha-Isomethyl Ionone, Geraniol, Citronellol, Eugenol, Cinnamyl Alcohol, CI 60730 (EXT.VIOLET 2), CI 15985 (YELLOW 6), CI 19140 (YELLOW 5), CI 14700 (RED 4)
Informations on the packaging: Gucci. Coty, 14 rue du Quatre Septembre, 75002 Paris. Coty US LLC, New York, NY 10118
Brand owner (now): Coty Inc., USA - www.coty.com; www.gucci.com
Made in the UK.

 I t smells slightly rubbery in the sense of used car tires. But also like a room where gasoline was spilled on the floor throughout time and which was well cleaned, yet the scent remained partially impregnated in it. I sense this thing only if I put my nose closelly to the skin where I sprayed the fragrance. When smelling the perfume in the air, from a certain distance, I rather

Monday, 1 January 2018

WONDEROUD by Comme des Garçons


Brand: Comme des Garçons pronounce in French
Perfume: Wonderoud pronounce in English
Concentration: edp
Notes:* Texas cedarwood fraction OrPur, oud wood (100% natural oud extracted from
resinous Aquilaria trees grown sustainably in South East Asia), Indonesian patchouli, Australian sandalwood, Haitian vetiver, guaiac wood, Pashminol
Ingredients: Alcohol Denat. (80% vol.), Parfum (Fragrance), Aqua (Water), Limonene, Linalool, Farnesol, Citral, Coumarin, Isoeugenol, Eugenol
Informations on the packaging: Comme Des Garçons Parfum S.A., Antonio Puig S.A., Barcelona 08021, Tr de Gracia 9
Brand owner (now): Puig S.L., Spain - www.puig.com; www.comme-des-garcons-parfum.com
Made in Spain.

  I mediately after pulverization, I clearly sense black pepper. Then I feel something which might be the scent of raw mushrooms, posibly champignon, and something else akin to dried herb roots. The biting smell that seems to "burn" a little bit my nostrils makes me imagine a story about how all these ingredients were macerated in alcohol for a long time, but the solution has