NO V - INCENSE EXTRÊME by Tauer

Brand: Tauer
Perfume: No V - Incense Extrême
Concentration: edp
Notes:* top - coriander, petitgrain
             middle - Boswellia serrata CO₂ extract, orris
             base - woods, ambergris
♔Ingredients: Alcohol Denat, Parfum, Aqua, Butylphenyl Methylpropional, Alpha-Isomethyl Ionone, Linalool, Limonene, Geraniol
♔Information on the packaging: Tauer GmbH, 8049, Zürich
♔Brand owner (now): Tauer GmbH, Switzerland - www.tauerperfumes.com
♔Made in Switzerland.

  I mmediately after No V - Incense Extrême hits my skin, I predominantly sense a spicy note reminiscent of cardamom seeds which bring softness and a cold sensation. Five minutes in and

FOUGÈRE BENGALE by Parfum d'Empire

Brand: Parfum d'Empire ^{pronounce in French}
Perfume: Fougère bengale ^{pronounce in French}
Concentration: edp
Notes:* lavender, blonde tobacco accord, tea from Assam, gingerbread, hay, tonka bean, patchouli, vanilla
♔Ingredients: Alcohol Denat. (80% vol.), Parfum (Fragrance), Aqua (Water), Limonene, Coumarin, Linalool, Alpha-Isomethyl Ionone, Citronellol, Geraniol, Citral, Eugenol
♔Information on the packaging: Viastella - 6, rue Barye, 75017, Paris, France
♔Brand owner (now): Viastella SAS, France - parfumdempire.com
♔Made in France.

 F irst, the fragrance feels very spicy. I sense two types of spices here:

- One that brings an earthy, baked texture and I think of fenugreek.

MALT by Akro

Brand: Akro
Perfume: Malt
Concentration: edp
Notes:* whiskey, rum, leather, seaweed, patchouli
♔Ingredients: Alcohol Denat., Parfum (Fragrance), Aqua (Water), Benzyl Salicylate, Eugenol, Cinnamal, Linalool, Farnesol
♔Information on the packaging: Les Influenceurs, 19 rue de Belfort, 06400 Cannes, France
♔Brand owner (now): Les Influenceurs SAS, France - akrofragrances.com 
♔Made in France.

  I  am greeted with an overripe (brown) banana odour immediately. That is so surprising to me. I had an official 2 ml sample of Malt and I have never experienced this smell there. But I

L'OMBRE DANS L'EAU by Diptyque (edp)

Brand: Diptyque ^{pronounce in French}
Perfume: L'ombre dans l'eau ^{pronounce in French}
Concentration: edp
Notes:* rose, petitgrain, blackcurrant buds, blackcurrant leaves
♔Ingredients: Alcohol Denat. (SD Alcohol 39-C) (80% vol.), Parfum (Fragrance), Aqua (Water), Citronellol, Geraniol, Linalool, Limonene, Eugenol, Benzyl Alcohol, Citral, Farnesol, Coumarin, BHT
♔Information on the packaging: Dist. Diptyque SAS, 34 Bd St Germain, 75005 Paris
♔Brand owner (now): Manzanita Capital Ltd., UK - www.manzanitacapital.com, www.diptyqueparis.com
♔Made in France.

 I  notice a dense, vegetal odour of tomato leaves but also of another plant, one akin to chopped lovage leaves. A citrussy note of lemon juice gives it sourness. And there is a big dose

RIEN by État Libre d'Orange

Brand: État Libre d'Orange ^{pronounce in French}
Perfume: Rien ^{pronounce in French}
Concentration: edp
Notes:* top - black pepper, Safraleine (saffron & leather accord), incense essence Orpur^®**
             middle - leather, iris absolute, cistus absolute
             base - patchouli essence Orpur^®, vetiver essence Orpur^®, treemoss
♔Ingredients: Alcohol denat. (80% vol.), Fragrance (Parfum), Water (Aqua), Benzyl Salicylate, Alpha-Isomethyl Ionone, Limonene, Citronellol, Evernia Furfuracea (Tree Moss) Extract, Geraniol, Eugenol, Linalool, Isoeugenol, Citral, Benzyl Alcohol, Benzyl Benzoate
♔Information on the packaging: Éditions des Sens S.A.S., 69, rue des Archives, 75003, Paris
♔Brand owner (now): Éditions des Sens S.A.S., France - www.etatlibredorange.com
♔Made in France.

 Rien is brutal in the opening. It smells biting, citrussy and bitter like a lemon (both the zest and pulp, but not juicy) and maybe like an orange too, also of rubber, industrial but not rough, vaguely

NEW TRADITION by Etro

Brand: Etro
Perfume: New Tradition
Concentration: edt
Notes:* lavender, rose, patchouli, musk
♔Ingredients: Alcohol Denat., Parfum (Fragrance), Amyl Cinnamal, Benzyl Benzoate, Benzyl Salicylate, Citral, Citronellol, Coumarin, Eugenol, Farnesol, Geraniol, Hydroxyisohexyl 3-Cyclohexene Carboxaldehyde, Limonene, Linalool
♔Information on the packaging: Etro, via Spartaco 3, Milano. Stab. Cantù
♔Brand owner (now): Etro S.p.A., Italy - www.etro.com
♔Made in Italy.

 I t smells bitter, of dried camomile, dense and slightly oily. At this stage, New Tradition bears a close resemblance to the initial phase of Aromatics Elixir by Clinique (the perfume). There is a

OUD by Robert Piguet

Brand: Robert Piguet ^{pronounce in French}
Perfume: Oud
Concentration: edp
Notes:* oud (from the Aquilaria species), saffron, myrrh, patchouli, guaiac wood, woods, incense, vetiver
♔Ingredients: Alcohol Denat., Fragrance (Parfum), Water (Aqua), Benzyl Benzoate, Citronellol, Coumarin, Geraniol, Isoeugenol, Limonene, Linalool, Butylphenyl Methylpropional
♔Information on the packaging: Fashion Fragrances & Cosmetics, Laboratoire Cofane, 41, rue de Dampmart, 77400 Thorigny sur Marne, France. Fashion Fragrances & Cosmetics, New York, NY 10016, USA
♔Brand owner (now): Fashion Fragrances & Cosmetics Ltd., USA - robertpiguetparfumseu.com 
♔Made in France.

 When I got this perfume, I sprayed it on the sweater that I was wearing that day. I was greeted with an aroma verging on burnt rubber or tar, with the associated smokiness, but without

BLACKPEPPER by Comme des Garçons

Brand: Comme des Garçons ^{pronounce in French} 

Perfume: Blackpepper

Concentration: edp
Notes:* Malagasy pepper, cedarwood, Akigalawood (patchouli, agarwood), tonka bean, musky accord
♔Ingredients: Alcohol Denat. (80% vol.), Aqua (Water), Parfum (Fragrance), Limonene, Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate, Coumarin, Linalool, Ethylhexyl Salicylate, Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane, Evernia Furfuracea (Treemoss) Extract, Eugenol
♔Information on the packaging: Antonio Puig S.A., Barcelona 08902, PL Europa 46, London WC1B 5EH
♔Brand owner (now): Antonio Puig S.A., Spain - www.puig.com; www.comme-des-garcons-parfum.com
♔Made in Spain.

 T he fragrance smells realistic and from the start of black peppercorns, a little sharp, but also of some kind of spiky wood (I imagine wood splinters stinging my skin). They are joined by a

ROMANZA by Masque Milano

Brand: Masque Milano ^{pronounce in Italian} 
Perfume: Romanza ^{pronounce in Italian} 
Concentration: edp
Notes:* top - absinth (artemisia), orange blossom, angelica
             middle - French narcissus absolute, violet leaves, jasmine
             base - vetiver, cedarwood, patchouli, amber, myrrh
♔Ingredients: Alcohol Denat., Parfum, Aqua, Alpha-Isomethyl Ionone, Benzyl Alcohol, Benzyl Benzoate, Benzyl Salicylate, Citral, Coumarin, Eugenol, Farnesol, Geraniol, Isoeugenol, Limonene, Linalool
♔Informations on the packaging: Masque S.r.l., via Bobbio 5/A, 20096 Pioltello (MI)
♔Brand owner (now): Masque S.r.l., Italy - artisticfragrances.com
♔Made in Italy.

 Wearing Romanza, I feel like I am in a barren field, on a plain draughty day of summer, and I've just pulled out of the ground the root of a plant—it smells mostly rooty, vegetal and of dry earth—which then I momentarily sunk in a glass of odorless oil. A slightly urinous odour gets to

TONNERRE by Beaufort London

Brand: Beaufort London
Perfume: Tonnerre
Concentration: edp
Notes:* top - lemon, gun powder, brandy, sea spray, blood, bergamot, ginger, cypress
             middle - lime, grapefruit, blond wood
             base - dark amber, fir balsam, Atlas cedar, birch, cistus
♔Ingredients: Alcohol Denat. (82%), Parfum, Benzyl Alcohol, Citral, Geraniol, Limonene, Linalool
♔Information on the packaging: Beaufort London Ltd., WC1N 3AX
♔Brand owner (now): Beaufort London Ltd., the UK - beaufortlondon.com
♔Made in the UK.

 The smell of fake smoke with synthetic nuances, but respirable. A sort of charred wood smoke mixed with the odour released by some plastics forgotten in the oven that is just starting to heat up.

CORIANDRE by Jean Couturier (edt)

Brand: Jean Couturier ^{pronounce in French}
Perfume: Coriandre ^{pronounce in French}
Concentration: edt
Notes:* top - coriander, angelica, orange blossom, aldehyde
             middle - ylang-ylang, lily, iris, geranium, jasmine, rose
             base - sandalwood, civet, patchouli, oakmoss, vetiver, musk
♔Ingredients: Alcohol Denat. (79% vol.), Aqua (Water), Parfum (Fragrance), Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate, Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane, Ethylhexyl Salicylate, BHT, Geraniol, Hydroxycitronellal, Citronellol, Linalool, Hexyl Cinnamal, Alpha-Isomethyl Ionone, Evernia Furfuracea (Tree Moos) Extract, Buthylphenyl Methylpropional, Amyl Cinnamal, Farnesol, Cinnamyl Alcohol, Benzyl Benzoate, Benzyl Salicylate, Limonene, Isoeugenol, Benzyl Alcohol, Citral, CI 14700 (RED 4), CI 42090 (BLUE 1), CI 19140 (YELLOW 5)
♔Information on the packaging: VAG - 8, rue Pasquier, 75008 Paris, France
♔Brand owner (now): VAG & Distribution S.A.R.L., France - www.vagdistri.com, www.parfums-jeancouturier.fr
♔Made in France.

 T he first spray is a little iffy, synthetic, but becomes wearable soon.

I like the bread facet the most: a simple, white, slightly dried bread with a soft crust, like the one

CORSICA FURIOSA by Parfum d'Empire

Brand: Parfum d'Empire ^{pronounce in French}
Perfume: Corsica Furiosa ^{pronounce in Italian}
Concentration: edp
Notes:* lentisk, wood, moss, earth, hay, honey, resin, leather...
♔Ingredients: Alcohol Denat. (80% vol.), Parfum (Fragrance), Aqua (Water), Limonene, Hexyl Cinnamal, Citral, Citronellol, Benzyl Benzoate, Geraniol, Amyl Cinnamal, Eugenol, Coumarin
♔Information on the packaging: Makkis, 6, rue Barye, 75017, Paris, France
♔Brand owner (now): --- - parfumdempire.com
♔Made in France.

 Corsica Furiosa opens with an easily recognisable note: galbanum, a vegetal odour reminiscent of raw green pea, here overdosed. I like galbanum so I enjoy what I'm smelling.

EAU PARFUMÉE AU THÉ NOIR by Bvlgari

Brand: Bvlgari ^{pronounce in Italian}
Perfume: Eau Parfumée au thé noir ^{pronounce in French}
Concentration: edc
Notes: top - black tea, tobacco
            middle - Damask rose, oud
            base - patchouli, woody notes, leather
♔Ingredients: Alcohol Denat. (SD Alcohol 39-C) (79% vol.), Aqua (Water), Parfum (Fragrance), Linalool, Limonene, Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate, Hydroxycitronellal, Citronellol, Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane, Ethylhexyl Salicylate, BHT, Citral, Geraniol, CI 60730 (EXT. VIOLET 2), Tocopherol, CI 19140 (YELLOW 5)
♔Information on the packaging: Bvlgari - Neuchâtel, Suisse. Dist. par/by Bvlgari Italia S.p.A., Roma, Italia; S.H. Krikorian Ltd., Markham, Ontario, Canada, L3R 5L9; Bvlgari, NY, NY 10019, USA
♔Brand owner (now): possibly LVMH Moët Hennessy - Louis Vuitton SE,* France - www.lvmh.com, www.bulgari.com
♔Made in Italy.

 Depending on what I spray Eau Parfumée au thé noir on, the outcome varies.

On fabric, it smells vaguely mushroomy. And also bready, like the simplest white and low-cost French bread you can find in the store (the one not very long, with three diagonal cuts on

LOVE KILLS by Masque Milano

Brand: Masque Milano ^{pronounce in Italian}
Perfume: Love Kills
Concentration: edp
Notes:* LMR** Turkish rose oil, LMR Turkish rose absolute, LMR Egyptian geranium oil "For Life"***, rose oxide, LMR molecularly distilled Indonesian patchouli oil, LMR ambrette absolute, cedarwood oil, animalic musks, Ambrarome
♔Ingredients: Alcohol Denat. (80% vol.), Parfum, Aqua, Geraniol, Citronellol, Linalool, Benzyl Salicylate, Alpha-Isomethyl Ionone, Citral, Eugenol, Farnesol, Benzyl Alcohol, Limonene
♔Information on the packaging: Masque S.r.l., via Bobbio 5/A, 20096 Pioltello (MI)
♔Brand owner (now): Masque S.r.l., Italy - artisticfragrances.com
♔Made in Italy.

 An opulent rose, dense, warm, round, slightly metallic, sweet almost like honey and not too far away from the Turkish delight realm. There are a number of elements that cut through this sweetness and impart a certain freshness to the perfume.

OH, OOOOH ...OH by Miller et Bertaux

Brand: Miller et Bertaux ^{pronounce in French}
Perfume: Oh, ooOoh ...oh
Concentration: edp
Notes:* bitter orange zest, juniper/gin, wild wormwood / absinthe, dried wood essence, evocation of redwood and U.S. cedar, dried herbs, balsamic gum / labdanum, leather, moss, musk stone, Indian camp smoke
♔Ingredients: Alcohol Denat., Parfum/Fragrance, Aqua/Water, Citral, Citronellol, Eugenol, Limonene, Linalool
♔Information on the packaging: M et B SARL, 17 rue Ferdinand Duval, 75004 Paris, France
♔Brand owner (now): Lothantique SAS, France - www.milleretbertaux.com
♔Made in France.

 Oh, ooOoh ...oh has a freshness that I like a lot; this is not citrussy or aquatic but rather as an autumn morning air, namely crisp and humid. There is a raw vegetal note, slightly sour, peculiar,