Saturday, 17 August 2024

BOIS BÉLIZE INTENSE by Nicolaï parfumeur-créateur


Brand: Nicolaï parfumeur-créateur pronounce in French
Perfume: Bois Bélize intense pronounce in French
Concentration: edp
Notes:* top - bergamot essential oil, osmanthus absolute, ambrette seeds absolute
             middle - rose, cardamom essential oil, clove essential oil
             base - guaiac wood essential oil, patchouli essential oil, maté leaves absolute, vetiver, oakmoss, musk
Ingredients: Alcohol Denat., Parfum (Fragrance), Aqua (Water), Limonene, Linalool, Geraniol, Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate, Eugenol, Citral, Ethylhexyl Salicylate, Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane, Isoeugenol
Information on the packaging: ©Nicolaï Parfumeur-Créateur, 69, avenue Raymond Poincaré, 75116 Paris, France
Brand owner (now): JLM Expansion S.A.R.L., France - www.pnicolai.com
Made in France.

  The initial spray reveals most of the facets: soapy, citrussy, bitter, salty, sweet, metallic and mothball-like. They seem to have been added in equal parts. I also smell a fizzy element and a burnt one, however, their levels are much lower.

The sweetness, after looking at the pyramid of notes, feels like coming from the rose. It is juicy, not jammy, and resembles the rose from the drydown of L'ombre dans l'eau (the edp) by Diptyque.
The combination of rose and salt makes for a delicious scent.

The soap smells vintage. It is not creamy but almost harsh, for lack of a better word. Maybe it is the aforementioned rose that creates this retro impression; or it could be the bitter citrussy rind aspect that might hint at a lemon-scented laundry soap bar from the past.

The metallic facet fits perfectly in this composition and is not coming out as dissonant as in Jasmin kâma by Rania J. and Vierges et toreros by État libre d'Orange. Probably this is where the sensation of coldness comes from.
If I inhale closely to the skin, I smell something ashy which, put next to this metallic facet, creates a somewhat burnt note. And I like it. It is not really detectable form a distance.

I enjoy every feature of Bois Bélize intense and the mothball note is no exception. In fact, it could be my favourite one. Another perfume in which I noticed it being as strong as in here was Incense Oud by the same Nicolaï parfumeur-créateur.

The perfume works better if I spray it directly on the skin and not on clothes; otherwise, it does not last as long and the drydown becomes diluted, more floral and will lack the bitterness.

Bois Bélize intense is a gorgeous, mature fragrance.

My verdict: 10 out of 10.
__________
* The notes were taken from the leaflet inserted in the perfume box, the boldface letters coming from the website www.pnicolai.com

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