BEL AMI by Hermès

Brand: Hermès ^{pronounce in French}
Perfume: Bel ami ^{pronounce in French}
Concentration: edt
Notes:* patchouli, leather, Cistus ladanifer
♔Ingredients: Alcohol (80% vol.), Aqua (Water), Parfum (Fragrance), Limonene, Linalool, Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate, Eugenol, Ethylhexyl Salicylate, Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane, BHT, Coumarin, Citral, Evernia Prunastri (Oakmoss) Extract, Geraniol, Cinnamal, Benzyl Benzoate, Farnesol, Citronellol, Isoeugenol, CI 17200 (Red 33)
♔Information on the packaging: Hermès Parfums, 23, rue Boissy d'Anglas, 75008 Paris. GB SWIX 9PX UK
♔Brand owner (now): ---
♔Made in France.

  I  smell something bitter and aromatic very similar to a herb found on the kitchen spice rack. It could be the tarragon also present in Le 3e homme by Caron.

In a few minutes, Bel ami becomes spicier. I smell nutmeg or allspice; something in that realm. It might include cloves as well considering that it gets a touch smoky but this effect is present only when I spray the perfume on the skin and not on clothes or in the distant air.

The sweetness comes in the form of shortbread cookie dough, not sweet-gourmand, and both keep a low profile.

Moving on, another element reveals itself: the juice of a lemon lacking in acidity, and this represents an improvement to the overall scent.

The drydown reminds me of 2 Man by Comme des garçons with that slightly citrussy, white smoke. It also shows a tiny sweaty side which I appreciate.

The somewhat synthetic nature that I impute to Bel ami (not disturbing, by the way) is probably the reason for which I find the fragrance a little abstract.

Now, all looks good, yet the perfume has a major problem: it feels very diluted. In a nutshell, this current version that I am reviewing smells of a lukewarm tisane made out of spices in which a few drops of lemon juice were squeezed and a bitter herb was added.

Too bad, because I can imagine how Bel ami was much better in the past. So underwhelming.

My verdict: 6 out of 10.
__________
* The notes were taken from www.hermes.com