MAL-AIMÉ by Parfum d'Empire

Brand: Parfum d'Empire ^{pronounce in French} 
Perfume: Mal-aimé ^{pronounce in French} 
Concentration: edp
Notes:* Dittrichia graveolens essential oil, thistle, nettle, bramble, roots
♔Ingredients: Alcohol Denat. (80% vol.), Parfum (Fragrance), Aqua (Water), Benzyl Salicylate, Hydroxycitronellal, Eugenol, Methyl 2-Octyonate, Linalool, Limonene, Citronellol, Geraniol, Farnesol, Citral, Benzyl Benzoate, Benzyl Alcohol, Cinnamal
♔Information on the packaging: Viastella - 6, rue Barye, 75017, Paris, France
♔Brand owner (now): Viastella SAS, France - parfumdempire.com
♔Made in France.

 Although it has its own personality, I perceive elements from other fragrances in Mal-aimé.

The perfume emanates a warm, sun-baked smell, similar to the fenugreek seeds that I have in

A QUIET MORNING, by Miller et Bertaux

Brand: Miller et Bertaux ^{pronounce in French}
Perfume: a quiet morning,
Concentration: edp
Notes:* top - turmeric, saffron, basmati rice
             middle - palm tree flowers, orange tree flowers
             base - Indian sandalwood, Tibetan cedarwood
♔Ingredients: Alcohol Denat., Parfum/Fragrance, Cinnamal, Eugenol, Farnesol, Limonene
♔Information on the packaging: Miller et Bertaux parfums. Lothantique, 04310 Peyruis, France
♔Brand owner (now): Lothantique SAS, France - www.milleretbertaux.com
♔Made in France.

 T he major player here is the citrus, a quite bitter one actually. I position its odour somewhere in between the lemon pulp put in a mug with boiled water and the lemon zest. It reminds me of

BOIS BÉLIZE INTENSE by Nicolaï parfumeur-créateur

Brand: Nicolaï parfumeur-créateur ^{pronounce in French}
Perfume: Bois Bélize intense ^{pronounce in French}
Concentration: edp
Notes:* top - bergamot essential oil, osmanthus absolute, ambrette seeds absolute
             middle - rose, cardamom essential oil, clove essential oil
             base - guaiac wood essential oil, patchouli essential oil, maté leaves absolute, vetiver, oakmoss, musk
♔Ingredients: Alcohol Denat., Parfum (Fragrance), Aqua (Water), Limonene, Linalool, Geraniol, Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate, Eugenol, Citral, Ethylhexyl Salicylate, Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane, Isoeugenol
♔Information on the packaging: ©Nicolaï Parfumeur-Créateur, 69, avenue Raymond Poincaré, 75116 Paris, France
♔Brand owner (now): JLM Expansion S.A.R.L., France - www.pnicolai.com
♔Made in France.

  The initial spray reveals most of the facets: soapy, citrussy, bitter, salty, sweet, metallic and mothball-like. They seem to have been added in equal parts. I also smell a fizzy element and a

2 MAN by Comme des garçons

Brand: Comme des garçons ^{pronounce in French}
Perfume: 2 Man
Concentration: edt
Notes:* incense, white smoke, saffron, nutmeg, kumquat, mint, vetiver, mahogany wood, leather
♔Ingredients: Alcohol Denat. (80%), Parfum (Fragrance), Aqua (Water), Limonene, Linalool, Eugenol, Geraniol, Alpha-Isomethyl Ionone, Benzyl Benzoate, Citral, Farnesol
♔Information on the packaging: Antonio Puig S.A., Barcelona 08902, PL Europa 46, London WC1B 5EH
♔Brand owner (now): Antonio Puig S.A., Spain - www.puig.com; comme-des-garcons-parfum.com
♔Made in Spain.

 I  initially tested it from an original 1,5 ml sample and I clearly felt parts from Rien by État libre d'Orange and Gomma by Etro. I said that it was less intrusive than the two. Now, after wearing it

SALUTE ! by Parfum d'Empire

Brand: Parfum d'Empire ^{pronounce in French}
Perfume: Salute !  ^{pronounce in Italian}
Concentration: edp
Notes:* lemon essential oil, grapefruit essential oil, mandarin essential oil, vine leaf accord, wine-dreg extract** (with rose and eau de vie facets), iris, powdery musks
♔Ingredients: Alcohol Denat., Parfum (Fragrance), Aqua (Water), Limonene, Hexyl Cinnamal, Benzyl Salicylate, Citral, Alpha-Isomethyl Ionone, Linalool, Amyl Cinnamal, Eugenol, Geraniol, Farnesol, Citronellol, Benzyl Benzoate, Benzyl Alcohol, Coumarin
♔Information on the packaging: 6, rue Barye, 75017, Paris, France
♔Brand owner (now): Viastella SAS, France - parfumdempire.com
♔Made in France.

 T he fragrance begins with an interesting spikiness. It is not that type that tingles the nostrils and disturbs some people. More present on the initial spray, it calms down after a minute. It

VETIVER by Etro

Brand: Etro
Perfume: Vetiver
Concentration: edt
Notes:* top - Salvia sclarea, artemisia, bergamot, petitgrain
             middle - orris, vetiver, guaiac wood
             base - amber, plant from the genus Nicotiana
♔Ingredients: Alcohol Denat., Parfum (Fragrance), Aqua (Water), Isoeugenol, Linalool
♔Information on the packaging: Etro, via Spartaco 3, Milano. Stab. Cantù
♔Brand owner (now): Etro S.p.A., Italy - www.etro.com
♔Made in Italy.

 Vetiver by Etro smells of button/portobello mushrooms, baked peanuts, dry and crumbly earth which makes me think of unpeeled potatoes and sand, and also metallic (but not in a disturbing

CRAVACHE by Robert Piguet (edt)

Brand: Robert Piguet ^{pronounce in French}
Perfume: Cravache ^{pronounce in French}
Concentration: edt
Notes: top - mandarin, lemon, petitgrain
            middle - lavender, nutmeg, sage
            base - vetiver, patchouli, oakmoss
♔Ingredients: Alcohol Denat., Fragrance (Parfum), Water (Aqua), Limonene, Linalool, Alpha-Isomethyl Ionone, Benzyl Salicylate, Citral, Citronellol, Coumarin, Eugenol, Evernia Furfuracea (Tree Moss) Extract, Farnesol, Geraniol, Hexyl Cinnamal, Hydroxycitronellal, Isoeugenol
♔Information on the packaging: Fashion Fragrances & Cosmetics, 41, rue de Dampmart, 77400 Thorigny sur Marne, France. Fashion Fragrances & Cosmetics Ltd, New York 10018. Fashion Fragrances & Cosmetics B.V., 1185 VB Amstelveen, The Netherlands
♔Brand owner (now): Fashion Fragrances & Cosmetics Ltd., USA - robertpiguetparfumseu.com
♔Made in France.

  I  am getting a lemon-like citrussy note, dense, vegetal and sour at the same time; it is as if I am smelling a big dose of bergamot. It makes me picture a bathroom full of steam where

NO V - INCENSE EXTRÊME by Tauer

Brand: Tauer
Perfume: No V - Incense Extrême
Concentration: edp
Notes:* top - coriander, petitgrain
             middle - Boswellia serrata CO₂ extract, orris
             base - woods, ambergris
♔Ingredients: Alcohol Denat, Parfum, Aqua, Butylphenyl Methylpropional, Alpha-Isomethyl Ionone, Linalool, Limonene, Geraniol
♔Information on the packaging: Tauer GmbH, 8049, Zürich
♔Brand owner (now): Tauer GmbH, Switzerland - www.tauerperfumes.com
♔Made in Switzerland.

  I mmediately after No V - Incense Extrême hits my skin, I predominantly sense a spicy note reminiscent of cardamom seeds which bring softness and a cold sensation. Five minutes in and

FOUGÈRE BENGALE by Parfum d'Empire

Brand: Parfum d'Empire ^{pronounce in French}
Perfume: Fougère bengale ^{pronounce in French}
Concentration: edp
Notes:* lavender, blonde tobacco accord, tea from Assam, gingerbread, hay, tonka bean, patchouli, vanilla
♔Ingredients: Alcohol Denat. (80% vol.), Parfum (Fragrance), Aqua (Water), Limonene, Coumarin, Linalool, Alpha-Isomethyl Ionone, Citronellol, Geraniol, Citral, Eugenol
♔Information on the packaging: Viastella - 6, rue Barye, 75017, Paris, France
♔Brand owner (now): Viastella SAS, France - parfumdempire.com
♔Made in France.

 F irst, the fragrance feels very spicy. I sense two types of spices here:

- One that brings an earthy, baked texture and I think of fenugreek.

MALT by Akro

Brand: Akro
Perfume: Malt
Concentration: edp
Notes:* whiskey, rum, leather, seaweed, patchouli
♔Ingredients: Alcohol Denat., Parfum (Fragrance), Aqua (Water), Benzyl Salicylate, Eugenol, Cinnamal, Linalool, Farnesol
♔Information on the packaging: Les Influenceurs, 19 rue de Belfort, 06400 Cannes, France
♔Brand owner (now): Les Influenceurs SAS, France - akrofragrances.com 
♔Made in France.

  I  am greeted with an overripe (brown) banana odour immediately. That is so surprising to me. I had an official 2 ml sample of Malt and I have never experienced this smell there. But I

L'OMBRE DANS L'EAU by Diptyque (edp)

Brand: Diptyque ^{pronounce in French}
Perfume: L'ombre dans l'eau ^{pronounce in French}
Concentration: edp
Notes:* rose, petitgrain, blackcurrant buds, blackcurrant leaves
♔Ingredients: Alcohol Denat. (SD Alcohol 39-C) (80% vol.), Parfum (Fragrance), Aqua (Water), Citronellol, Geraniol, Linalool, Limonene, Eugenol, Benzyl Alcohol, Citral, Farnesol, Coumarin, BHT
♔Information on the packaging: Dist. Diptyque SAS, 34 Bd St Germain, 75005 Paris
♔Brand owner (now): Manzanita Capital Ltd., UK - www.manzanitacapital.com, www.diptyqueparis.com
♔Made in France.

 I  notice a dense, vegetal odour of tomato leaves but also of another plant, one akin to chopped lovage leaves. A citrussy note of lemon juice gives it sourness. And there is a big dose

RIEN by État Libre d'Orange

Brand: État Libre d'Orange ^{pronounce in French}
Perfume: Rien ^{pronounce in French}
Concentration: edp
Notes:* top - black pepper, Safraleine (saffron & leather accord), incense essence Orpur^®**
             middle - leather, iris absolute, cistus absolute
             base - patchouli essence Orpur^®, vetiver essence Orpur^®, treemoss
♔Ingredients: Alcohol denat. (80% vol.), Fragrance (Parfum), Water (Aqua), Benzyl Salicylate, Alpha-Isomethyl Ionone, Limonene, Citronellol, Evernia Furfuracea (Tree Moss) Extract, Geraniol, Eugenol, Linalool, Isoeugenol, Citral, Benzyl Alcohol, Benzyl Benzoate
♔Information on the packaging: Éditions des Sens S.A.S., 69, rue des Archives, 75003, Paris
♔Brand owner (now): Éditions des Sens S.A.S., France - www.etatlibredorange.com
♔Made in France.

 Rien is brutal in the opening. It smells biting, citrussy and bitter like a lemon (both the zest and pulp, but not juicy) and maybe like an orange too, also of rubber, industrial but not rough, vaguely

NEW TRADITION by Etro

Brand: Etro
Perfume: New Tradition
Concentration: edt
Notes:* lavender, rose, patchouli, musk
♔Ingredients: Alcohol Denat., Parfum (Fragrance), Amyl Cinnamal, Benzyl Benzoate, Benzyl Salicylate, Citral, Citronellol, Coumarin, Eugenol, Farnesol, Geraniol, Hydroxyisohexyl 3-Cyclohexene Carboxaldehyde, Limonene, Linalool
♔Information on the packaging: Etro, via Spartaco 3, Milano. Stab. Cantù
♔Brand owner (now): Etro S.p.A., Italy - www.etro.com
♔Made in Italy.

 I t smells bitter, of dried camomile, dense and slightly oily. At this stage, New Tradition bears a close resemblance to the initial phase of Aromatics Elixir by Clinique (the perfume). There is a

OUD by Robert Piguet

Brand: Robert Piguet ^{pronounce in French}
Perfume: Oud
Concentration: edp
Notes:* oud (from the Aquilaria species), saffron, myrrh, patchouli, guaiac wood, woods, incense, vetiver
♔Ingredients: Alcohol Denat., Fragrance (Parfum), Water (Aqua), Benzyl Benzoate, Citronellol, Coumarin, Geraniol, Isoeugenol, Limonene, Linalool, Butylphenyl Methylpropional
♔Information on the packaging: Fashion Fragrances & Cosmetics, Laboratoire Cofane, 41, rue de Dampmart, 77400 Thorigny sur Marne, France. Fashion Fragrances & Cosmetics, New York, NY 10016, USA
♔Brand owner (now): Fashion Fragrances & Cosmetics Ltd., USA - robertpiguetparfumseu.com 
♔Made in France.

 When I got this perfume, I sprayed it on the sweater that I was wearing that day. I was greeted with an aroma verging on burnt rubber or tar, with the associated smokiness, but without

BLACKPEPPER by Comme des garçons

Brand: Comme des garçons ^{pronounce in French} 

Perfume: Blackpepper

Concentration: edp
Notes:* Malagasy pepper, cedarwood, Akigalawood (patchouli, agarwood), tonka bean, musky accord
♔Ingredients: Alcohol Denat. (80% vol.), Aqua (Water), Parfum (Fragrance), Limonene, Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate, Coumarin, Linalool, Ethylhexyl Salicylate, Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane, Evernia Furfuracea (Treemoss) Extract, Eugenol
♔Information on the packaging: Antonio Puig S.A., Barcelona 08902, PL Europa 46, London WC1B 5EH
♔Brand owner (now): Antonio Puig S.A., Spain - www.puig.com; www.comme-des-garcons-parfum.com
♔Made in Spain.

 T he fragrance smells realistic and from the start of black peppercorns, a little sharp, but also of some kind of spiky wood (I imagine wood splinters stinging my skin). They are joined by a