BEL AMI by Hermès

Brand: Hermès ^{pronounce in French}
Perfume: Bel ami ^{pronounce in French}
Concentration: edt
Notes:* patchouli, leather, Cistus ladanifer
♔Ingredients: Alcohol (80% vol.), Aqua (Water), Parfum (Fragrance), Limonene, Linalool, Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate, Eugenol, Ethylhexyl Salicylate, Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane, BHT, Coumarin, Citral, Evernia Prunastri (Oakmoss) Extract, Geraniol, Cinnamal, Benzyl Benzoate, Farnesol, Citronellol, Isoeugenol, CI 17200 (Red 33)
♔Information on the packaging: Hermès Parfums, 23, rue Boissy d'Anglas, 75008 Paris. GB SWIX 9PX UK
♔Brand owner (now): ---
♔Made in France.

  I  smell something bitter and aromatic very similar to a herb found on the kitchen spice rack. It could be the tarragon also present in Le 3e homme by Caron.

MAL-AIMÉ by Parfum d'Empire

Brand: Parfum d'Empire ^{pronounce in French} 
Perfume: Mal-aimé ^{pronounce in French} 
Concentration: edp
Notes:* Dittrichia graveolens essential oil, thistle, nettle, bramble, roots
♔Ingredients: Alcohol Denat. (80% vol.), Parfum (Fragrance), Aqua (Water), Benzyl Salicylate, Hydroxycitronellal, Eugenol, Methyl 2-Octyonate, Linalool, Limonene, Citronellol, Geraniol, Farnesol, Citral, Benzyl Benzoate, Benzyl Alcohol, Cinnamal
♔Information on the packaging: Viastella - 6, rue Barye, 75017, Paris, France
♔Brand owner (now): Viastella SAS, France - parfumdempire.com
♔Made in France.

 Although it has its own personality, I perceive elements from other fragrances in Mal-aimé.

The perfume emanates a warm, sun-baked smell, similar to the fenugreek seeds that I have in

A QUIET MORNING, by Miller et Bertaux

Brand: Miller et Bertaux ^{pronounce in French}
Perfume: a quiet morning,
Concentration: edp
Notes:* top - turmeric, saffron, basmati rice
             middle - palm tree flowers, orange tree flowers
             base - Indian sandalwood, Tibetan cedarwood
♔Ingredients: Alcohol Denat., Parfum/Fragrance, Cinnamal, Eugenol, Farnesol, Limonene
♔Information on the packaging: Miller et Bertaux parfums. Lothantique, 04310 Peyruis, France
♔Brand owner (now): Lothantique SAS, France - www.milleretbertaux.com
♔Made in France.

 T he major player here is the citrus, a quite bitter one actually. I position its odour somewhere in between the lemon pulp put in a mug with boiled water and the lemon zest. It reminds me of

BOIS BÉLIZE INTENSE by Nicolaï parfumeur-créateur

Brand: Nicolaï parfumeur-créateur ^{pronounce in French}
Perfume: Bois Bélize intense ^{pronounce in French}
Concentration: edp
Notes:* top - bergamot essential oil, osmanthus absolute, ambrette seeds absolute
             middle - rose, cardamom essential oil, clove essential oil
             base - guaiac wood essential oil, patchouli essential oil, maté leaves absolute, vetiver, oakmoss, musk
♔Ingredients: Alcohol Denat., Parfum (Fragrance), Aqua (Water), Limonene, Linalool, Geraniol, Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate, Eugenol, Citral, Ethylhexyl Salicylate, Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane, Isoeugenol
♔Information on the packaging: ©Nicolaï Parfumeur-Créateur, 69, avenue Raymond Poincaré, 75116 Paris, France
♔Brand owner (now): JLM Expansion S.A.R.L., France - www.pnicolai.com
♔Made in France.

  The initial spray reveals most of the facets: soapy, citrussy, bitter, salty, sweet, metallic and mothball-like. They seem to have been added in equal parts. I also smell a fizzy element and a

2 MAN by Comme des garçons

Brand: Comme des garçons ^{pronounce in French}
Perfume: 2 Man
Concentration: edt
Notes:* incense, white smoke, saffron, nutmeg, kumquat, mint, vetiver, mahogany wood, leather
♔Ingredients: Alcohol Denat. (80%), Parfum (Fragrance), Aqua (Water), Limonene, Linalool, Eugenol, Geraniol, Alpha-Isomethyl Ionone, Benzyl Benzoate, Citral, Farnesol
♔Information on the packaging: Antonio Puig S.A., Barcelona 08902, PL Europa 46, London WC1B 5EH
♔Brand owner (now): Antonio Puig S.A., Spain - www.puig.com; comme-des-garcons-parfum.com
♔Made in Spain.

 I  initially tested it from an original 1,5 ml sample and I clearly felt parts from Rien by État libre d'Orange and Gomma by Etro. I said that it was less intrusive than the two. Now, after wearing it

SALUTE ! by Parfum d'Empire

Brand: Parfum d'Empire ^{pronounce in French}
Perfume: Salute !  ^{pronounce in Italian}
Concentration: edp
Notes:* lemon essential oil, grapefruit essential oil, mandarin essential oil, vine leaf accord, wine-dreg extract** (with rose and eau de vie facets), iris, powdery musks
♔Ingredients: Alcohol Denat., Parfum (Fragrance), Aqua (Water), Limonene, Hexyl Cinnamal, Benzyl Salicylate, Citral, Alpha-Isomethyl Ionone, Linalool, Amyl Cinnamal, Eugenol, Geraniol, Farnesol, Citronellol, Benzyl Benzoate, Benzyl Alcohol, Coumarin
♔Information on the packaging: 6, rue Barye, 75017, Paris, France
♔Brand owner (now): Viastella SAS, France - parfumdempire.com
♔Made in France.

 T he fragrance begins with an interesting spikiness. It is not that type that tingles the nostrils and disturbs some people. More present on the initial spray, it calms down after a minute. It

VETIVER by Etro

Brand: Etro
Perfume: Vetiver
Concentration: edt
Notes:* top - Salvia sclarea, artemisia, bergamot, petitgrain
             middle - orris, vetiver, guaiac wood
             base - amber, plant from the genus Nicotiana
♔Ingredients: Alcohol Denat., Parfum (Fragrance), Aqua (Water), Isoeugenol, Linalool
♔Information on the packaging: Etro, via Spartaco 3, Milano. Stab. Cantù
♔Brand owner (now): Etro S.p.A., Italy - www.etro.com
♔Made in Italy.

 Vetiver by Etro smells of button/portobello mushrooms, baked peanuts, dry and crumbly earth which makes me think of unpeeled potatoes and sand, and also metallic (but not in a disturbing

CRAVACHE by Robert Piguet (edt)

Brand: Robert Piguet ^{pronounce in French}
Perfume: Cravache ^{pronounce in French}
Concentration: edt
Notes: top - mandarin, lemon, petitgrain
            middle - lavender, nutmeg, sage
            base - vetiver, patchouli, oakmoss
♔Ingredients: Alcohol Denat., Fragrance (Parfum), Water (Aqua), Limonene, Linalool, Alpha-Isomethyl Ionone, Benzyl Salicylate, Citral, Citronellol, Coumarin, Eugenol, Evernia Furfuracea (Tree Moss) Extract, Farnesol, Geraniol, Hexyl Cinnamal, Hydroxycitronellal, Isoeugenol
♔Information on the packaging: Fashion Fragrances & Cosmetics, 41, rue de Dampmart, 77400 Thorigny sur Marne, France. Fashion Fragrances & Cosmetics Ltd, New York 10018. Fashion Fragrances & Cosmetics B.V., 1185 VB Amstelveen, The Netherlands
♔Brand owner (now): Fashion Fragrances & Cosmetics Ltd., USA - robertpiguetparfumseu.com
♔Made in France.

  I  am getting a lemon-like citrussy note, dense, vegetal and sour at the same time; it is as if I am smelling a big dose of bergamot. It makes me picture a bathroom full of steam where

NO V - INCENSE EXTRÊME by Tauer

Brand: Tauer
Perfume: No V - Incense Extrême
Concentration: edp
Notes:* top - coriander, petitgrain
             middle - Boswellia serrata CO₂ extract, orris
             base - woods, ambergris
♔Ingredients: Alcohol Denat, Parfum, Aqua, Butylphenyl Methylpropional, Alpha-Isomethyl Ionone, Linalool, Limonene, Geraniol
♔Information on the packaging: Tauer GmbH, 8049, Zürich
♔Brand owner (now): Tauer GmbH, Switzerland - www.tauerperfumes.com
♔Made in Switzerland.

  I mmediately after No V - Incense Extrême hits my skin, I predominantly sense a spicy note reminiscent of cardamom seeds which bring softness and a cold sensation. Five minutes in and

FOUGÈRE BENGALE by Parfum d'Empire

Brand: Parfum d'Empire ^{pronounce in French}
Perfume: Fougère bengale ^{pronounce in French}
Concentration: edp
Notes:* lavender, blonde tobacco accord, tea from Assam, gingerbread, hay, tonka bean, patchouli, vanilla
♔Ingredients: Alcohol Denat. (80% vol.), Parfum (Fragrance), Aqua (Water), Limonene, Coumarin, Linalool, Alpha-Isomethyl Ionone, Citronellol, Geraniol, Citral, Eugenol
♔Information on the packaging: Viastella - 6, rue Barye, 75017, Paris, France
♔Brand owner (now): Viastella SAS, France - parfumdempire.com
♔Made in France.

 F irst, the fragrance feels very spicy. I sense two types of spices here:

- One that brings an earthy, baked texture and I think of fenugreek.

MALT by Akro

Brand: Akro
Perfume: Malt
Concentration: edp
Notes:* whiskey, rum, leather, seaweed, patchouli
♔Ingredients: Alcohol Denat., Parfum (Fragrance), Aqua (Water), Benzyl Salicylate, Eugenol, Cinnamal, Linalool, Farnesol
♔Information on the packaging: Les Influenceurs, 19 rue de Belfort, 06400 Cannes, France
♔Brand owner (now): Les Influenceurs SAS, France - akrofragrances.com 
♔Made in France.

  I  am greeted with an overripe (brown) banana odour immediately. That is so surprising to me. I had an official 2 ml sample of Malt and I have never experienced this smell there. But I

L'OMBRE DANS L'EAU by Diptyque (edp)

Brand: Diptyque ^{pronounce in French}
Perfume: L'ombre dans l'eau ^{pronounce in French}
Concentration: edp
Notes:* rose, petitgrain, blackcurrant buds, blackcurrant leaves
♔Ingredients: Alcohol Denat. (SD Alcohol 39-C) (80% vol.), Parfum (Fragrance), Aqua (Water), Citronellol, Geraniol, Linalool, Limonene, Eugenol, Benzyl Alcohol, Citral, Farnesol, Coumarin, BHT
♔Information on the packaging: Dist. Diptyque SAS, 34 Bd St Germain, 75005 Paris
♔Brand owner (now): Manzanita Capital Ltd., UK - www.manzanitacapital.com, www.diptyqueparis.com
♔Made in France.

 I  notice a dense, vegetal odour of tomato leaves but also of another plant, one akin to chopped lovage leaves. A citrussy note of lemon juice gives it sourness. And there is a big dose

RIEN by État Libre d'Orange

Brand: État Libre d'Orange ^{pronounce in French}
Perfume: Rien ^{pronounce in French}
Concentration: edp
Notes:* top - black pepper, Safraleine (saffron & leather accord), incense essence Orpur^®**
             middle - leather, iris absolute, cistus absolute
             base - patchouli essence Orpur^®, vetiver essence Orpur^®, treemoss
♔Ingredients: Alcohol denat. (80% vol.), Fragrance (Parfum), Water (Aqua), Benzyl Salicylate, Alpha-Isomethyl Ionone, Limonene, Citronellol, Evernia Furfuracea (Tree Moss) Extract, Geraniol, Eugenol, Linalool, Isoeugenol, Citral, Benzyl Alcohol, Benzyl Benzoate
♔Information on the packaging: Éditions des Sens S.A.S., 69, rue des Archives, 75003, Paris
♔Brand owner (now): Éditions des Sens S.A.S., France - www.etatlibredorange.com
♔Made in France.

 Rien is brutal in the opening. It smells biting, citrussy and bitter like a lemon (both the zest and pulp, but not juicy) and maybe like an orange too, also of rubber, industrial but not rough, vaguely

NEW TRADITION by Etro

Brand: Etro
Perfume: New Tradition
Concentration: edt
Notes:* lavender, rose, patchouli, musk
♔Ingredients: Alcohol Denat., Parfum (Fragrance), Amyl Cinnamal, Benzyl Benzoate, Benzyl Salicylate, Citral, Citronellol, Coumarin, Eugenol, Farnesol, Geraniol, Hydroxyisohexyl 3-Cyclohexene Carboxaldehyde, Limonene, Linalool
♔Information on the packaging: Etro, via Spartaco 3, Milano. Stab. Cantù
♔Brand owner (now): Etro S.p.A., Italy - www.etro.com
♔Made in Italy.

 I t smells bitter, of dried camomile, dense and slightly oily. At this stage, New Tradition bears a close resemblance to the initial phase of Aromatics Elixir by Clinique (the perfume). There is a

OUD by Robert Piguet

Brand: Robert Piguet ^{pronounce in French}
Perfume: Oud
Concentration: edp
Notes:* oud (from the Aquilaria species), saffron, myrrh, patchouli, guaiac wood, woods, incense, vetiver
♔Ingredients: Alcohol Denat., Fragrance (Parfum), Water (Aqua), Benzyl Benzoate, Citronellol, Coumarin, Geraniol, Isoeugenol, Limonene, Linalool, Butylphenyl Methylpropional
♔Information on the packaging: Fashion Fragrances & Cosmetics, Laboratoire Cofane, 41, rue de Dampmart, 77400 Thorigny sur Marne, France. Fashion Fragrances & Cosmetics, New York, NY 10016, USA
♔Brand owner (now): Fashion Fragrances & Cosmetics Ltd., USA - robertpiguetparfumseu.com 
♔Made in France.

 When I got this perfume, I sprayed it on the sweater that I was wearing that day. I was greeted with an aroma verging on burnt rubber or tar, with the associated smokiness, but without